On Set

What Is Catalog Modeling?

Posted on by AJR250

Pottery Barn Teen Catalog (2013)

Target "Back To School" Catalog (2014)

J.Jill Catalog Cover (2014)

Buck & Buck Catalog Cover (2018)

When we think of catalogs, we usually think of Target, REI, Bed Bath and Beyond and Walmart. There are hundreds of mail order and online catalogs selling a variety of merchandise; clothing, outdoor equipment, and even Halloween costumes. Their purpose is to entice customers to buy products, using visual and written descriptions – since they are not purchased from inside a brick-and-mortar store.

The model casting is based on the product that the client is selling. Models can range from children all the way up to seniors. Some clients require their models to have specific skills or interests; such as a sportswear client might look for professional or amateur athletes. Nevertheless, all clients want models who are approachable and move well in front of the camera.

Nordstrom Anniversary Sale Catalog Cover (2015)

Art Directors are typically responsible for booking models, though photographers and stylists can also be given the task. Art Directors gather their creative teams and ensure that their marketing visuals are properly executed. They also maintain an ‘approved’ board, displaying pictures of all the models that they consider for their shoots. If you are ‘approved’, you have the potential to work with that client annually, monthly, or even every week.

Models who get booked on a regular basis can receive significant annual incomes. As a result, catalog clients are considered the bread and butter of the modeling world. Day rates are substantially higher than editorial jobs because catalog work is more driven by advertising, and the photos from these shoots are not always portfolio worthy. However, the rate will vary depending on the client’s budget, as well as the model’s experience and the strength of his or her portfolio.

 

Like many other shoots, catalog jobs can be held in a studio or on location. If a client shoots consistently throughout the year, they may have an in-house studio and production team. Because outdoor shots are popular in catalogs, some clients travel to another state or abroad to get the appropriate setting and weather conditions. English and German clients have been known to shoot their summer collections in South Africa or Miami, due to consistent warmer climates and sandy beaches.

A model’s job is to emphasize the clothing or product while making it look natural. For example, you may be asked to use kitchen or gardening appliances, or pretend to be socializing with friends. But, for clothing, the movement is fluid and continuous. The most common facial expression seen in catalogs is a smile. However, when a model needs to be serious, it is usually done with a soft, pleasant look. Although the photographer and art director will give you direction, you will be expected to have a ‘flow’; making subtle adjustments to your poses. A slight move of your hand, a tilt of the head, or a change of facial expression will give the client a variety of shots to choose from. Furthermore, if you are able to do this quickly and efficiently, you’ve just increased the chances of the client wanting you back.

REI Fall Sale Catalog (2013)

Spirit Halloween Catalog (2015)

Nike Women's Fall Catalog Cover (2006)

Ikea Catalog (2017)

What You Need To Know About Model Release Forms

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What You Need To Know About Model Release Forms

Model release forms are documents that, if signed, give photographers/clients the right to use your image and likeness through any still or video footage that they have taken of you. Release forms were not used that often before the advancements in technology and social media, but now they seem to be the norm for every shoot.

Part of your agent’s job is to negotiate how and where your final images or film will be used and for how long. This is partly because the client’s use of your likeness can affect your rate. In general, more specifically advertising, greater exposure commands a higher rate, or ‘usage fee’. But, it is also dependent on the budget or brand.

Agents and clients occasionally draw up written contracts to formalize their agreements. They will include rates and usage, plus any non-disclosures or exclusivity clauses. However, clients may still give you release forms to sign at shoots, despite having contracts in place.

DON’T GET CAUGHT OUT

Although clients may have your agent pre-approve their releases or adjust them to match the contracts; there are a few that won’t. Call your agency the moment you receive any model releases that you weren’t alerted about before going on set. Your agent will let you know if you need to make any corrections or alterations to it.

Signing a release without your agent’s permission can potentially hinder your modeling career. You could be authorizing the client rights to unlimited usage of the images, for an unlimited amount of time and without further reimbursement to you.

WHAT TO DO WHEN GIVEN A RELEASE FORM

Should you feel pressured into signing a release, politely inform the client that you are under contract that prevents you from signing anything without your agency’s consent.  Additionally, you can say that you would be happy to forward it to your agent for approval.

If you sign a release without your agent’s approval, you could be giving the client unlimited use of the images for an unlimited amount of time, without further reimbursement.
If you sign a release without your agent’s approval, you could be giving the client unlimited use of the images for an unlimited amount of time, without further reimbursement.

Bravo! Condé Nast: The Media Company Implements A Code Of Conduct For Photoshoots

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It has been a tumultuous time of late. With the rise of the #MeToo movement, and it’s effect on not only Hollywood but many other industries, including Fashion.  Both men and women have spoken up about their experiences which are truly difficult to stomach.  But at last, it seems like society is finally addressing this serious situation. Even if we think it’s, ‘a little too late,’ there are changes being made to protect all genders in the workplace going forward.

In this month’s issue of Vogue, Anna Wintour announces in her Letter from the Editor  that the global media company, Condé Nast, which owns the glossy magazine, had recently created guidelines to specifically protect models from, “manipulation, coercion, and abuse while on set.”  While this code of conduct was already enforced by January 2018, it was rather impressive to see it written in print, penned by the queen of fashion herself. The new Condé Nast guidelines include:

All models appearing in fashion shoots must be eighteen years of age or older. The only exceptions will be those appearing as themselves as part of a profile or news story, and they will be required to have a chaperone on set at all times.

Alcohol will no longer be allowed on Condé Nast sets. Recreational drugs will not be allowed.

Photographers will no longer be permitted to use a Condé Nast set for any work that is not commissioned or approved by the company.

Any shoot involving nudity, sheer clothing, lingerie, swimwear, simulated drug or alcohol use, or sexually suggestive poses must be approved in advance by the subject.

Although, there are already child model laws set in place that should cover some of these points. Condé Nast also made specifications for location shoots and travel.

We recommend that a model should not be alone with a photographer, makeup artist or other contributor participating in a Condé Nast shoot.

Throughout the shoot, including any related travel, photographers and videographers may not shoot anyone engaged by or through Condé Nast other than as requested by Condé Nast.

Read the full Condé Nast code of conduct here

I fully commend Condé Nast for their shift in doing business, and hopefully other companies will follow suit. Bravo!

 

 

An Interview with British Stylist Sophie Stevens: On Set Life And Working With Models

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"I picked her because I knew she wouldn't let me down. I didn't want to risk using a new girl that might not have been able to cope with the situation."

British Stylist Sophie Stevens
Photos courtesy of Sophie Stevens

Sophie Stevens does not only style celebrities like Kylie Minogue and Mel C, but you will also find her forecasting trends on British radio and television. She has spent over two decades working alongside models for campaigns and editorials such as; Marks and Spencers, L'Oréal, and Cosmopolitan Magazine. We get up close and personal with the glamorous stylist to find out what it's like to be in her world that requires models to have the utmost professionalism.

FMD: Stylists are sometimes asked to take part in selecting the models, as well as style. Do you get involved in the model casting process for your projects, and if so; are there specific physical or personality traits that you look for in both male and female models?
Sophie Stevens: I am often the person choosing the model. Personality is key for me. A book can show how they look on camera, but not who they are. [When you see them in person] you might discover that they do ballet or can ski - showing that they have great balance and are possibly super bendy! Physically, great skin and great hair is always a must.

Casting also gives you the ability to check for any changes to their appearance. For example, have they had a haircut or color? It's also a perfect opportunity to have a casual chat and a giggle with the models. Just to gauge what kind of personality they have. Lastly, I always reconfirm their stats with them. Often shoe sizes etc. can be incorrect in a model's book, and this can really make or break a shoot if you don't have the correct sizes.

FMD: Do you have any advice that would help models during castings? For instance, what would be a big no-no if they were at your casting?
Sophie Stevens: Being too quiet! Not expressing their personality enough. I love it when models show their natural style in what they wear to castings. I much prefer seeing [models] as they are. Clean hair is a must, and if it's pulled up; pull it down before we meet. Finally, don't swamp yourself in layers so I can't see your figure.

FMD: Describe the best working experience you have had with a model, and why it is on the top of your list?
Sophie Stevens: There would have been a lot over the years. But, a recent one that springs to mind is when I shot the Spring/Summer trends shoot in March, on a beach in the UK and it was so cold. The model was such a trooper. She never complained, even when it started to snow! She was in denim shorts and a sheer top while [the rest of the crew] had twelve layers on. I felt so bad, but I tried to keep her laughing and jumping by shoving a hot water bottle down her back and giving her endless hot drinks. She was so professional. She even said that she'd had a really nice day! Models are amazing sometimes! It's worth mentioning that I actually had shot this girl before. I picked her because I knew she wouldn't let me down. I didn't want to risk using a new girl that might not have been able to cope with the situation.

FMD: What would be your most challenging moments on set with a model? 
Sophie Stevens: There was a girl I shot once who was very new. She was such a sweet girl but also extremely nervous. The client had booked her for a big campaign, but she literally couldn't move. She couldn't follow any of my direction, so I had to keep going on set and physically move parts of her body to the position I needed them to be in. It was so difficult and time-consuming, and we had about 30 shots to do that day. 

FMD: From a client's standpoint, what is the working environment like while being on set for an editorial or campaign shoot?
Sophie Stevens: It's fun! A little stressful at times, depending on what you're doing.- and very busy! Time seems to slip away with you, so you have to be strict about getting people into position and not let them get carried away with chatting and eating croissants. If you're in charge, you have to step up and make sure things happen and be prepared for anything.

FMD: You do a lot of multi-day shoots on location. What are your expectations of models for these projects? Are they different from when you work on single day, or studio shoots?
Sophie Stevens: Location shoot days tend to start a lot earlier, so punctuality is key. They also tend to be slightly longer days, so models need to be aware of this in case they have evening plans or flights to catch. The other important factor for location shoots would be dressing appropriately. Even though wardrobe is provided for the shoot, models should bring clothes and shoes to keep warm in between shots. 

FMD: What advice do you have for any model that walks on to your set?
Sophie Stevens: Enjoy yourself, but be present. Don't check your phone every two minutes. Change quickly, and give it your all. That way everyone is happy; the day goes smoothly and quickly. Plus, we all get to go home on time!

 

What Is Editorial Modeling

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Love Magazine (issue 17.5) model: Slick Woods, photography: Alasdair McLellan, fashion editing: Katie Grand.

Vogue Australia (October 2017) model: Fei Fei Sun, photography: Robbie Fimmano, styling: Katie Mossman.

Elle Men Hong Kong (2017) model: Rafal Kontny, photography: Lukasz Wolejko-Wolejszo, styling: Fabiana Vardaro.

GQ Magazine (2017) model: Geron McKinley, photography: Sebastian Mader.

Editorials are four to ten-page visual stories that showcase fashion, beauty, and lifestyle trends in magazines. Although the models, clothes, and accessories are usually the main focus, creative hairstyles, makeup, and props can also be the feature and add to the theme of the fashion story.

The magazine genre and the theme of the editorial greatly affect the model casting. Fashion magazines, for example, V Man or Harper’s Bazaar, book models that have an edgy or high fashion look. Some lifestyle magazines, like Self and Men’s Health, tend to use models that are more commercial and possibly athletic.

Shape Magazine (April 2013) model: Daria Pilnitskaya, photography: Jamie Nelson, styling: Katie Goldsmith.

Mens Health Romania (September 2017) model: Jason Morgan, photography: McKinght Peterson.

Along with physique and features, models require patience. There is a lot of makeup and hair preparation, light set up, and prop placement that is involved. Models should also know how to move and deliver different expressions. Lastly, they must be open-minded; editorials are constantly evolving with new creative concepts.

Editorial poses consist of angular lines and are either static or in movement; including jumping and running. The model’s expression is typically pensive, or a strong reaction to something. However, for a lifestyle magazine, models are more likely to smile while showing off the clothes, product, or even fitness exercise. Nevertheless, models must move with fluidity.

 

Editorial modeling is not as easy as it looks. Holding your body in uncomfortable positions for hours under hot lights, or wearing inappropriate footwear while traversing mountains is no picnic. Additionally, because editorials promote trends for the upcoming season, a common challenge is modeling summer clothes during winter, and vice versa. Nevertheless, you will most likely end up with beautiful photos that will give your portfolio a boost.

The Edit (October 2017) model: Grace Elizabeth, photography: Sebastian Kim, styling: Katie Mossman.

Modern Luxury (2017) model: Mathew Rojas, photography: Mark Veltman, stylist: Paul Frederick.

Vogue China (May 2011) model: Karlie Kloss, photography: Patrick Demarchelier, styling: Nicoletta Santoro

Vogue Portugal (October 2017) model: Maria Borges, photography: Branislav Simoncik.

The Three Ways you will Impress a Client.

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The key to any successful career is to secure repeat business. This means that every time you walk on set you must bedazzle the client - not only with your appearance but your professionalism too. Here are three ways to help increase the chances of your clients calling your agent to book you again and again.

Have Confidence and Personality

Studies show that at least 60% of human communication is nonverbal; body language, facial expression, tone of voice, and eye contact. A person can get an instant impression of you the moment you walk into the room. If your shoulders are hunched and your face is blank, they may think that you have low self-esteem or no personality. It is important to appear confident because clients need the assurance that you can exude charisma and deliver whatever 'persona' they need to sell their product. The most successful models are not necessarily the most beautiful, but they are confident, well presented, vivacious and not afraid to strike up interesting conversations. It is normal to feel nervous - especially when working with a client for the first time. Maintaining eye contact and holding a conversation can be challenging under these circumstances.  Here are some tips that will have you oozing charm:

  • Look into the triangle area between the cheek bones and the bridge of the nose on the person’s face. It is less daunting than staring straight into their eyes, yet it is still just as effective.
  • Test your acting skills; pretend that you are one of your favorite, assertive movie characters.
  • Communicate with candor, but be aware that there is always a right time, place, and an appropriate topic for a discussion.

Master Your Poses

The more experience you have posing and moving in front of the camera, the more clients will want to hire you. When you deliver lots of great images in the least amount of time, it means that the client will stay ahead of schedule, and possibly decrease costs of production. Having a dance or acting background certainly helps, but if you do not, it may be worthwhile taking a few classes to improve your confidence and movement. In the meantime, practice all your poses and expressions in front of the mirror. Remember how they feel; because you won’t be able to see what you are doing once you are on set....And don't forget these three golden rules:

  • Listen to what the client is asking of you, and follow direction.
  • Provide your best, appropriate angles and expressions.
  • Ensure that you are showcasing the product or clothing properly.

Respect the Client's Property

This may seem like common sense, but nerves or distractions can make the best of us forget our manners. Being respectful towards your client’s, and their property, will grant you respect in return. By following these guidelines, you will show the client that you have good business etiquette that will make them want you back for more bookings.

  • Refrain from smoking; smelling like cigarettes can put people off, and burning holes in a collection definitely won't make a good impression.
  • Never eat and drink while in the client's clothing or around their products without permission.
  • Do not sit down while wearing the client’s clothes, unless they allow you to do so. Stylists work very hard to make sure that the clothes are clean and pressed to perfection.
  • Do not get deodorant, fake tan, makeup, or body oil on the client's clothing. If you’ve had makeup applied for a shoot or fashion show, have a makeup and hair protector hood or pillowcase handy, to keep it from getting onto the clothes.
  • Hang up your clothes, or help when you can.
  • Get rid of your trash; clients do not want to clean up after you.
  • Ask for permission to use any property in the studio, wardrobe trailer, or location.
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