Building Your Portfolio

It is a general rule that the more magazine tear sheets and campaigns you have in your portfolio, the more it motivates clients to book you.  This is because they demonstrate your hirability and experience. But, what if you are a new face and have never done a photo shoot, or you are not booking jobs that provide tear sheets? Not to worry, this is what testing is for.

Test shoots are styled and shot as if they were for magazines, but more focused on the model rather than the clothes. They are a way to build up your portfolio, as well as your professional experience. Not only do new faces rely on testing; established models also utilize it to keep momentum while they wait for published editorials or advertising jobs, and to keep their portfolios updated.

Testing comes in two forms:

• PAID TESTS
• TFP – Trade for prints.

PAID TESTS

Many models have to hire photographers in order to get their portfolios started. Your agent will either set it up or put you in contact with him or her. It is likely that the photographer is a client, who shoots advertising, magazines, or catalogs. Testing is a great way for working photographers to become familiar with new models.

Paid tests can cost anywhere from $200 to $850, depending on the photographer, location and what kind of team is involved. After the shoot, your agency will receive a CD, zip file or web link containing all the photos. Keep in mind that there is the possibility of having to do more than one paid test, especially is you are a new face.

TRADE FOR PRINTS

There is a constant flow of photographers trying to get established within the fashion industry. One of the ways they do this is by reaching out to model agencies to offer free test shoots. In return, they can use the images for promotional purposes in their portfolios. The model (or models) will also be given copies for their books. These are known as “trade shoots”, or trade-for-print (TFP) shoots. 

However, these trade shoots may not always work out. This can be due to poor photography, gaudy styling or an unsuitable theme. It is part of the risk and nature of working with new artists. But, whether the images make it into your book or not, the experience will help you grow as a model.

*If an artist approaches you directly to organize a shoot, notify your agency for approval. Your agent will know if the shoot will be worth your while (and safe!) 

THE PORTFOLIO

With a fastidious eye your agent specifically arranges your portfolio or "book" so that you are presented in the best possible way. They select the images from your test shoots , as well as any published editorials or campaigns. Some of the shots chosen may not be your favorite but, in the agent’s professional opinion, the photos enhance your features, body shape or personality. Special care is taken to include a number of poses and looks that show diversity, and appeal to as many clients as possible. Yet, not all clients are going to love all your photos. Should one client say they don’t like a picture, it does not mean that it won’t interest another. 

As a new face, it is normal to start out with four or five prints in your book. It is far more effective to have a few great pictures than a lot of ordinary ones. Keep in mind that it takes a while for a portfolio to develop into one worthy of a well-seasoned model, so be patient.