Stuart Vever

NYFW F/W2018: A Fashion State of Mind.

By Katerina Stamatopoulou

@katrinst

Flashbacks to past decades. Travels to foreign cultures and to the outer space. Romanticism and gothic aesthetic. Playfulness. This NYFW almost had it all.

February 8, 2018


Tom Ford
Tom Ford’s women’s fashion show was a true flashback to the flamboyant, glamorous and sexy ‘80’s. Oversized outwear with metallic, black and vibrant animal print leggings turned out to be Ford’s favorites. Once again, he proved that he is an impeccable tailor in tuxedo dressing. But, the supplemental eccentricity with a sense of humor, and a #MeToo moment with two ‘Pussy Power’ sparkling lettering handbags shows us that Tom Ford wants to provoke our animal instincts as well.

 

Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott turned his fashion show into a kaleidoscope of neon colors. The beauty of these fluorescent and almost hypnotic colors were not only on his clothes and accessories, but also to the wigs worn by the models. “The Fifth Element” influence was obvious. “Um, just to have fun! Remember that?” Scott said before the show began. Some frivolity is always welcomed when it comes to fashion.

February 9, 2018


Tory Burch
For this season, Tory Burch found herself somewhere between a romantic and a utilitarian place. Pink carnations decorated the catwalk, and the Chamber Orchestra of New York played sonnets while the models presented Burch’s creations. Tailored blazers, dresses with asymmetric hemlines, and graphic botanical prints decorated some of the clothes. In spite of the romantic mood, utility jackets brought a masculine element to the collection, which gave some yin to it’s yang.

 

Bottega Veneta
It was the first presentation of the Italian House in New York, so the show should be about New York. Tomas Maier’s inspiration was derived from the bold dress code of Studio 54. Silk jewel-toned pajama sets, oversized textured coats, intricate embroidered and color blocking dresses brought a lot of Art Deco patterns in mind.

 

February 10, 2018


Alexander Wang
The old Conde Nast building in Times Square became the runway of Alexander Wang’s fall show. The “Matrix” aesthetic was there to stay with some nods to ‘90s Armani, Chanel, Prada and Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” video. An old hair trend came back, and what else would it be but the giant plastic hair clip.

Stop trying to fit in, when you were born to stand out ! I did it the #PLEINway

A post shared by Philipp Plein (@philippplein78) on

 

Philipp Plein
Philipp Plein’s show was an ode to technology, space, and the rise of the robots. Irina Shayk’s unexpected escort stole the show. The model appeared from the just-landed spacecraft to join a giant robot on the ‘space station’ catwalk. Shayk with her “I love you Philipp Plein” skin-tight catsuit, took her giant partner by the hand, and under the sounds of “Fly Me to The Moon”, they walked together on the catwalk. 

 

February 11, 2018


Victoria Beckham
It’s been a decade since Victoria Beckham was introduced to us as a fashion designer. And, her recent collection was a celebration of Beckham’s British heritage. Most of the clothes had a utility detail. Military coats, oversized sweaters, wide belts, huge felted bags and square-toe long strap flats proved that minimal is not always boring.

 

Prabal Gurung
The Nepal-raised designer is a proud feminist supporter. For this season, Gurung was inspired by China’s matriarchal Mosuo tribe. Vibrant colors and a lot of cultural references at Eastern and Western civilizations created a glamorous and very feminine collection. 

 

February 12, 2018


Anna Sui
“Spin! Stop! Shoulder thrust! Hip thrust! Killer gaze!” The old-school way a model conquers the catwalk. Red, orange, and purple ruled the collection’s color palette and created a powerful psychedelic, flower-power, and early ‘60s aesthetic. Also, the mixing of the fabrics and the prints echoed pages of a ‘60s fashion magazine.

 

Carolina Herrera
After 37 years at the fashion’s service, Carolina Herrera decided to step down and give the reins of her House to her creative consultant, Wes Gordon. The white collared shirt and black bottoms are Herrera’s signature, and at her final show, she decided to pair it with colorful taffeta gown skirts. Something to remember, but not so classic. 

 

February 13, 2018


Coach 1941
“The Witch” could have been Stuart Vever’s inspiration since the mood of his collection and catwalk had something gothic, whimsical and “darkly romantic” as the designer said. Floral and paisley dresses in autumnal colors, long black coats, and leather-trimmed outwear were the main pieces of the 76-years-old American leather luxury brand’s autumn 2018 collection.

 

Calvin Klein
Raf Simons had a surprise for his attendants at Calvin Klein’s show. He filled the catwalk with popcorn! Moreover, the show’s installations had Andy Warhol’s prints on them, and it looked more like an art show than an ordinary fashion show. As for the collection, Simons presented many ‘Protection’ pieces. Workers’ outfits, rubber boots, oversized sweaters and coats, knitted hoods and a lot of popcorn!

 

February 14, 2018


Michael Kors
This collection was about Michael Kors’ favorite things and “for people who find joy in getting dressed,” as the designer said. ‘50s cocktail dresses, tartan outwear, animal prints accessories, and jacquards embroideries. All mixed up together. A collection of many possible outfit combinations. 

 

Marc Jacobs
What happens when Yves Saint Laurent meets Emanuel Ungaro, and suddenly Dick Tracy enters the room? Surely, a comic book aesthetic with puffed proportions but in luxury fabrics. Jacobs created a collection inspired by all those ‘80s characters, fictional or not. The oversized silhouettes and the so ‘80s color palette made his creations look almost grotesque, but at the same time very beautiful.  

 

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