PFW F/W2018. We’ll Always Have Paris.
February 27, 2018
Christian Dior
First, it was the “We should all be feminists” T-shirt, now the “C’est non, non, non et non!” sweater. It’s been 50 years since the student riots in May 1968, and Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to make another social-political statement. Inspired by the tumultuous protesters of 1968 and Diane Vreeland’s “youthquake”, Chiuri wanted to target younger customers but retain Dior’s high-fashion aesthetic and legacy. A wardrobe that is revolutionary but also highly creative.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello was inspired by the Yves Saint Laurent’s “Russian Peasant” couture collection of F/W 1976, an extravagant collection in its time. But, Vaccarello gave a more Parisian direction of that elaborated and voluminous collection of Monsieur Saint Laurent. Mini shorts, large brimmed hats, fiercely impressive décolletés and the sparkling Eiffel Tower as a background accessory created a strong, contemporary fashion statement.
February 28, 2018
Maison Margiela
Décortiqué. John Galliano loves to name his collections with French adjectives. In this collection, he stripped down the garments to their essence and just kept their skeletal structure. Unconscious glamour was the collection’s name, but it looked more like ‘Rushed Dressing’ glamour. Coats worn before dresses, blazers before sweaters, holographic coats and a lot of deconstructing garments all over the catwalk. Galliano loves the pair-if-you-dare game of fabrics.
Dries Van Noten
Fashion is good, fashion is nice. It sounds like a mantra but that was the message Dries Van Noten was passing through his collection. We live in a very complicated and wild world, and maybe the Dark Ages are back. But, fashion should reflect the bright side of life. That was what Van Noten’s collection was all about. Utilitarian sportswear, ‘70s glam, and Paul Poiret references. Fashion is good, fashion is nice.
March 1, 2018
Ann Demeulemeester
The dark romanticism of the British poet, William Blake, was what Sébastien Meunier had in mind while creating this strong, aggressive but feminine collection. Clothes for modern amazons. Unfastened leather straps, painted black clothes, but there was also a hint of innocence. Jeanne d’Arc could have been Meunier’s muse for this collection.
March 2, 2018
Loewe
Five classical novels in their native language, with jackets photographed by Steven Meisel, were placed on every chair. “Classicism is always there…sometimes you change the cover and make it relevant for today,” Jonathan Anderson referred to the reading material. Loewe craftsmanship and the meticulously detailed mixing of the fabrics created an updated classic collection.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing’s “Balmain Army” became fierce disco queens this season. They love wearing ripped jeans with holographic jackets, quilted leather, PVC thigh-high boots, and whatever has a shining effect on the designer’s favorite ‘80s silhouettes.
March 3, 2018
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo always loves to deconstruct the shape of the clothes and create theatrical figures inspired the history, even if she has stated that she doesn’t like to look back. For this season, CAMP was the name of her collection. She referred to Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on Camp”. “I think camp can express something deeper, and give birth to progress,” Kawakubo wrote in her show notes. The progress of thinking and feeling the world around us.
Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra designed a collection that was all about the women he grew up with. His mother, his friends, all the women who work and get dressed to go to the office. La Coupole restaurant at Montparnasse was the perfect choice for this real collection to take place.
March 4, 2018
Givenchy
If someone wants to learn about the ‘80s in East and West Germany, Clare Waight Keller’s collection for Givenchy would be the best fashion history class. Rich faux furs, leather, sharp tailoring and lace created the desired contradiction so as to present those two different sides of a country. Glamour and cruelty.
Valentino
“Sometimes it’s felt as if a woman had to dress like men to be more powerful. Today is a different moment. People can be exactly how they are,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli. Flowers, the symbol of romance, were the collection’s main theme. Flowers that were a reminder of Georgia O’ Keefe paintings but much more minimal. Long dresses, coats, jackets; everything a romantic Valentino woman would wear.
March 5, 2018
Alexander McQueen
A McQueen woman is always powerful, and so was Sarah Burton’s show. Metamorphosis was the name of the collection, and it was an ode to powerful womanhood. Like a caterpillar transforms into a beautiful and ethereal butterfly, so does a girl become a mighty woman. Undoubtedly, throughout the collection butterfly wings had a special place.
Giambattista Valli
“Humanity, much less politics,” Giambattista Valli said backstage. Valli’s collection was a collision between different cultures and politics where everyone accepts each other as they are. A journey through different countries, unique civilizations and unlike mentalities, but with bohemian attitude.
March 6, 2018
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld always narrates a personal story through each of his shows, and he did so again this time. Twelve old alleys decorated the runway, at Grand Palais, along with a German forest that is usually spotted somewhere in north Hamburg, a memory from Lagerfeld’s childhood. Everything that one needed for a stylish walk into the woods was in the collection.
The #CHANELFallWinter 2018/19 show, presented by Karl Lagerfeld yesterday in Paris. #PFW
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Miu Miu
Miu Miu is about girls who love to have fun with fashion. This time, Miuccia Prada mixed the ‘50s and ‘80s and the outcome was an eccentric and colorful collection. Different types of models, but all were referring to strong personalities. One thing in common… they all love the ‘80s powerful dress code.
The Latest Departures and Arrivals In the Luxury Fashion Houses
It seems that departures and arrivals from and to the houses will continue in 2018.
In 2017, two creative directors stopped their long-term partnership: Phoebe Philo, who left Céline after 10 years and Christopher Bailey from Burberry after 17 years.
Now, designer Kim Jones exits Louis Vuitton where he has taken over men’s clothing.
“It has been a huge privilege to work with Kim,” said Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton. “His ability to set trends is impeccable,” Burke continues. “All of us who have been fortunate to work with Kim wish him continued success in his next venture.”
His collaboration with the French house began in 2011. The Saint Martins graduate’s collections exuded a traveling aesthetic inspired by his travels to Asia and Africa. We could say that Jones has an addiction to travel. But, he is also who brought streetwear to Louis Vuitton after his collaboration with Supreme, the famous New York-based streetwear brand, at the AW2017 show.
Many celebrities from the fashion world attended Jones’ last show under the name of Louis Vuitton. Virgil Abloh, Oliver Rousteing, and the Beckham family were among them.
However, the designer had a surprise for the attendees. Supermodels, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, appeared on the catwalk with whom he walked into the show’s finale.
As far as it concerns his next step, Jones has been mentioned as a potential designer for Burberry, after Bailey’s exit.
Also, new arrivals have occurred in several fashion houses. Former Chloé designer, Clare Waight Keller, succeeded Riccardo Tisci after leaving Givenchy in March 2017. And, Natacha Ramsay Levi took the helm after Keller’s departure from Chloé.
A few days ago, Hedi Slimane, one of the leading fashion designers joined Céline.
Recently, LVMH announced that Slimane, who previously served Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, takes on his role in February 2018, while his first collection will be shown in September during Paris Fashion Week.
In his new role, Slimane will be the artistic, creative and image director of Céline, while he will introduce a men’s collection and a fragrance.
“I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH group and taking the reins of our Céline maison,” said the LVMH chairman and CEO, Bernard Arnault. “He is one of the most talented designers of our
time. I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme (2000-2007). His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this maison.”
“I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline,” said Slimane. “ I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers.”
But actually, he never left fashion. Since Slimane left Saint Laurent, in April 2016, he continued to work on his photo projects, but he liked to talk publicly about his return to the fashion design.
