PFW F/W2018. We’ll Always Have Paris.
February 27, 2018
Christian Dior
First, it was the “We should all be feminists” T-shirt, now the “C’est non, non, non et non!” sweater. It’s been 50 years since the student riots in May 1968, and Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to make another social-political statement. Inspired by the tumultuous protesters of 1968 and Diane Vreeland’s “youthquake”, Chiuri wanted to target younger customers but retain Dior’s high-fashion aesthetic and legacy. A wardrobe that is revolutionary but also highly creative.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello was inspired by the Yves Saint Laurent’s “Russian Peasant” couture collection of F/W 1976, an extravagant collection in its time. But, Vaccarello gave a more Parisian direction of that elaborated and voluminous collection of Monsieur Saint Laurent. Mini shorts, large brimmed hats, fiercely impressive décolletés and the sparkling Eiffel Tower as a background accessory created a strong, contemporary fashion statement.
February 28, 2018
Maison Margiela
Décortiqué. John Galliano loves to name his collections with French adjectives. In this collection, he stripped down the garments to their essence and just kept their skeletal structure. Unconscious glamour was the collection’s name, but it looked more like ‘Rushed Dressing’ glamour. Coats worn before dresses, blazers before sweaters, holographic coats and a lot of deconstructing garments all over the catwalk. Galliano loves the pair-if-you-dare game of fabrics.
Dries Van Noten
Fashion is good, fashion is nice. It sounds like a mantra but that was the message Dries Van Noten was passing through his collection. We live in a very complicated and wild world, and maybe the Dark Ages are back. But, fashion should reflect the bright side of life. That was what Van Noten’s collection was all about. Utilitarian sportswear, ‘70s glam, and Paul Poiret references. Fashion is good, fashion is nice.
March 1, 2018
Ann Demeulemeester
The dark romanticism of the British poet, William Blake, was what Sébastien Meunier had in mind while creating this strong, aggressive but feminine collection. Clothes for modern amazons. Unfastened leather straps, painted black clothes, but there was also a hint of innocence. Jeanne d’Arc could have been Meunier’s muse for this collection.
March 2, 2018
Loewe
Five classical novels in their native language, with jackets photographed by Steven Meisel, were placed on every chair. “Classicism is always there…sometimes you change the cover and make it relevant for today,” Jonathan Anderson referred to the reading material. Loewe craftsmanship and the meticulously detailed mixing of the fabrics created an updated classic collection.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing’s “Balmain Army” became fierce disco queens this season. They love wearing ripped jeans with holographic jackets, quilted leather, PVC thigh-high boots, and whatever has a shining effect on the designer’s favorite ‘80s silhouettes.
March 3, 2018
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo always loves to deconstruct the shape of the clothes and create theatrical figures inspired the history, even if she has stated that she doesn’t like to look back. For this season, CAMP was the name of her collection. She referred to Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on Camp”. “I think camp can express something deeper, and give birth to progress,” Kawakubo wrote in her show notes. The progress of thinking and feeling the world around us.
Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra designed a collection that was all about the women he grew up with. His mother, his friends, all the women who work and get dressed to go to the office. La Coupole restaurant at Montparnasse was the perfect choice for this real collection to take place.
March 4, 2018
Givenchy
If someone wants to learn about the ‘80s in East and West Germany, Clare Waight Keller’s collection for Givenchy would be the best fashion history class. Rich faux furs, leather, sharp tailoring and lace created the desired contradiction so as to present those two different sides of a country. Glamour and cruelty.
Valentino
“Sometimes it’s felt as if a woman had to dress like men to be more powerful. Today is a different moment. People can be exactly how they are,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli. Flowers, the symbol of romance, were the collection’s main theme. Flowers that were a reminder of Georgia O’ Keefe paintings but much more minimal. Long dresses, coats, jackets; everything a romantic Valentino woman would wear.
March 5, 2018
Alexander McQueen
A McQueen woman is always powerful, and so was Sarah Burton’s show. Metamorphosis was the name of the collection, and it was an ode to powerful womanhood. Like a caterpillar transforms into a beautiful and ethereal butterfly, so does a girl become a mighty woman. Undoubtedly, throughout the collection butterfly wings had a special place.
Giambattista Valli
“Humanity, much less politics,” Giambattista Valli said backstage. Valli’s collection was a collision between different cultures and politics where everyone accepts each other as they are. A journey through different countries, unique civilizations and unlike mentalities, but with bohemian attitude.
March 6, 2018
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld always narrates a personal story through each of his shows, and he did so again this time. Twelve old alleys decorated the runway, at Grand Palais, along with a German forest that is usually spotted somewhere in north Hamburg, a memory from Lagerfeld’s childhood. Everything that one needed for a stylish walk into the woods was in the collection.
The #CHANELFallWinter 2018/19 show, presented by Karl Lagerfeld yesterday in Paris. #PFW
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Miu Miu
Miu Miu is about girls who love to have fun with fashion. This time, Miuccia Prada mixed the ‘50s and ‘80s and the outcome was an eccentric and colorful collection. Different types of models, but all were referring to strong personalities. One thing in common… they all love the ‘80s powerful dress code.
How To Recover From Fashion Month
Has Fashion Month Left You Feeling Like You've Been Hit By A Wrecking Ball?
Fashion Month is now over, and you are left with sore feet, dry skin, brittle hair, flaking soft nails, and the feeling that you could sleep for a week. We would suggest that you take a vacation, like a number of models do, but what if you don’t have the time or opportunity to do that? We have a few easy and affordable ways to recover, and get you back to your modeling career.
Multi-Tasking Makeup: For when you need to apply on the fly!
Do you find yourself frantically slapping on makeup in the car, train, bus or whatever mode of transport that won’t get you to your appointment fast enough? Do you end up with makeup smudged all over your face and clothes, rather than it being beautifully applied to all the right places? Fear not of the panda eyes or slapdash army look anymore. We’ve got some fantastic products to show you that, aside from looking stunning on your face, are multi-tasking, portable, and easily applied without the mess.
LFW F/W2018: Hail the Fashion Mix!
Britishness. Color explosion. Print mix. Feminine empowerment. And Queen Elizabeth II first appearance at LFW. God save LFW!
February 16, 2018
Mulberry
“It’s all about the bag!” someone might think at the sound of the name Mulberry, the British well-known for its handbags brand. True but, the see-now, buy-now Spring 2018 collection was more like the tea party scene from Alice in Wonderland. A patisserie color palette and shoes with colorful ruffles and porcelain cups inspired rounded heels are the perfect choices for a garden party.
Matty Bovan
Matty Bovan is one of the rising stars on the London fashion scene. With his first solo show, he proved that he’s not only a good tailor since the main pieces of the collection were inspired by his late grandmother’s wardrobe, but he’s also a great showman. The tulle headdresses filled with balloons, designed by Stephen Jones, stole the show.
February 17, 2018
J.W. Anderson
“I was trying to think what is modern today and what is modern is what is next. Now is an amazing moment of clear-out and I think let’s go and find what’s new,” Jonathan Anderson said about his collection. He had to look back to his first collections and get inspiration from them. Paisleys, trench coats and khakis. It was a very different collection to what he does for LOEWE. It was a younger and more optimistic collection.
Burberry
Christopher Bailey’s last show for Burberry was a TIME to remember. This time wasn’t about Burberry, it was about a celebration of individuality. To that end, Bailey showed everything he believes in. Gay rights, optimism, youthfulness, and British streetwear were a look back to all those years he worked at Burberry. The bright LGBTQ+ rainbow colors appeared in most pieces, which became the signature of his last collection.
Gareth Pugh
This collection was all about power dressing. For once more, Pugh demolished the feminine silhouette and created a stiffer and more well-constructed one. Pagoda-shouldered tailoring, high-waisted trousers, leopard prints and a Hellraiser nail helmet made the collection serious armor. No one will ever dare to mess around with a Pugh’s woman.
February 18, 2018
Roland Mouret
“The Eyes of Laura Mars,” a 1978 movie, starring Faye Dunaway, is about power, femininity and image control. One of Roland Mouret’s favorite movies and the inspiration for his collection. He wanted to address the current theme of women’s harassment in the workplace, and he did it. Tapestry-like fabrics, wrap skirts but also laced dresses and football socks gave his collection the perfect balance between sensuality and modesty.
Mary Katrantzou
Mary Katrantzou is the “Queen of Prints,” and once again she demonstrated that she can reduce the distance between two very different design styles. Her “Interior Lives” collection was inspired by furniture and prints from William Morris and Bauhaus. A very paradoxical marriage with a very creative outcome. And yes, a Chesterfield sofa can turn into a bomber jacket!
February 19, 2018
Erdem
For his melancholy collection, Erdem Moralioglu chose as his inspiration the American vaudeville star Adele Astaire, sister of Fred Astaire. Beautiful, rich and romantic this collection could only be named. A showgirl who married an aristocrat. A collision of two different worlds. On the one side sparkling dresses and glittering capes, on the other jacquard dresses and thin black face veils. It worked since his collection told the story he had in mind.
Christopher Kane
“I’ve always been about human behavior, and I’ve always had some sort of sexual behavior in the collections,” Christopher Kane said after he presented his “The Joy of Sex “ by Alex Comfort illustrations inspired collection. Dominatrix leather dresses, knits that revealed the bra strap, and a lot of lace, “lover’s lace” as it called. Beautiful, provocative and sensual collection.
February 20, 2018
Richard Quinn
“She’s known for her sense of humor, and she’s seen a lot in her life. I don’t think a gimp mask will shock the Queen,” Richard Quinn said about the possible need of muting the designer’s signature bondage theme due to Queen Elizabeth II’s attendance at his show. Quinn’s collection was a tribute to Her Majesty’s Balmoral wardrobe. Prints, scarves beautifully paired with pleated chiffon skirts and oversized bomber jackets. At the end of the show, Quinn was awarded by Her Majesty with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, as a recognition of his talent and contribution to the fashion community.
NYFW F/W2018: A Fashion State of Mind.
Flashbacks to past decades. Travels to foreign cultures and to the outer space. Romanticism and gothic aesthetic. Playfulness. This NYFW almost had it all.
February 8, 2018
Tom Ford
Tom Ford’s women’s fashion show was a true flashback to the flamboyant, glamorous and sexy ‘80’s. Oversized outwear with metallic, black and vibrant animal print leggings turned out to be Ford’s favorites. Once again, he proved that he is an impeccable tailor in tuxedo dressing. But, the supplemental eccentricity with a sense of humor, and a #MeToo moment with two ‘Pussy Power’ sparkling lettering handbags shows us that Tom Ford wants to provoke our animal instincts as well.
Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott turned his fashion show into a kaleidoscope of neon colors. The beauty of these fluorescent and almost hypnotic colors were not only on his clothes and accessories, but also to the wigs worn by the models. “The Fifth Element” influence was obvious. “Um, just to have fun! Remember that?” Scott said before the show began. Some frivolity is always welcomed when it comes to fashion.
February 9, 2018
Tory Burch
For this season, Tory Burch found herself somewhere between a romantic and a utilitarian place. Pink carnations decorated the catwalk, and the Chamber Orchestra of New York played sonnets while the models presented Burch’s creations. Tailored blazers, dresses with asymmetric hemlines, and graphic botanical prints decorated some of the clothes. In spite of the romantic mood, utility jackets brought a masculine element to the collection, which gave some yin to it’s yang.
Bottega Veneta
It was the first presentation of the Italian House in New York, so the show should be about New York. Tomas Maier’s inspiration was derived from the bold dress code of Studio 54. Silk jewel-toned pajama sets, oversized textured coats, intricate embroidered and color blocking dresses brought a lot of Art Deco patterns in mind.
February 10, 2018
Alexander Wang
The old Conde Nast building in Times Square became the runway of Alexander Wang’s fall show. The “Matrix” aesthetic was there to stay with some nods to ‘90s Armani, Chanel, Prada and Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” video. An old hair trend came back, and what else would it be but the giant plastic hair clip.
Stop trying to fit in, when you were born to stand out ! I did it the #PLEINway
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Philipp Plein
Philipp Plein’s show was an ode to technology, space, and the rise of the robots. Irina Shayk’s unexpected escort stole the show. The model appeared from the just-landed spacecraft to join a giant robot on the ‘space station’ catwalk. Shayk with her “I love you Philipp Plein” skin-tight catsuit, took her giant partner by the hand, and under the sounds of “Fly Me to The Moon”, they walked together on the catwalk.
February 11, 2018
Victoria Beckham
It’s been a decade since Victoria Beckham was introduced to us as a fashion designer. And, her recent collection was a celebration of Beckham’s British heritage. Most of the clothes had a utility detail. Military coats, oversized sweaters, wide belts, huge felted bags and square-toe long strap flats proved that minimal is not always boring.
Prabal Gurung
The Nepal-raised designer is a proud feminist supporter. For this season, Gurung was inspired by China’s matriarchal Mosuo tribe. Vibrant colors and a lot of cultural references at Eastern and Western civilizations created a glamorous and very feminine collection.
@kaiagerber twirling down the runway in a luxe metallic parka! ✨ #AnnaSuiFall18 Regram: @wwd
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February 12, 2018
Anna Sui
“Spin! Stop! Shoulder thrust! Hip thrust! Killer gaze!” The old-school way a model conquers the catwalk. Red, orange, and purple ruled the collection’s color palette and created a powerful psychedelic, flower-power, and early ‘60s aesthetic. Also, the mixing of the fabrics and the prints echoed pages of a ‘60s fashion magazine.
Carolina Herrera
After 37 years at the fashion’s service, Carolina Herrera decided to step down and give the reins of her House to her creative consultant, Wes Gordon. The white collared shirt and black bottoms are Herrera’s signature, and at her final show, she decided to pair it with colorful taffeta gown skirts. Something to remember, but not so classic.
February 13, 2018
Coach 1941
“The Witch” could have been Stuart Vever’s inspiration since the mood of his collection and catwalk had something gothic, whimsical and “darkly romantic” as the designer said. Floral and paisley dresses in autumnal colors, long black coats, and leather-trimmed outwear were the main pieces of the 76-years-old American leather luxury brand’s autumn 2018 collection.
Calvin Klein
Raf Simons had a surprise for his attendants at Calvin Klein’s show. He filled the catwalk with popcorn! Moreover, the show’s installations had Andy Warhol’s prints on them, and it looked more like an art show than an ordinary fashion show. As for the collection, Simons presented many ‘Protection’ pieces. Workers’ outfits, rubber boots, oversized sweaters and coats, knitted hoods and a lot of popcorn!
February 14, 2018
Michael Kors
This collection was about Michael Kors’ favorite things and “for people who find joy in getting dressed,” as the designer said. ‘50s cocktail dresses, tartan outwear, animal prints accessories, and jacquards embroideries. All mixed up together. A collection of many possible outfit combinations.
Marc Jacobs
What happens when Yves Saint Laurent meets Emanuel Ungaro, and suddenly Dick Tracy enters the room? Surely, a comic book aesthetic with puffed proportions but in luxury fabrics. Jacobs created a collection inspired by all those ‘80s characters, fictional or not. The oversized silhouettes and the so ‘80s color palette made his creations look almost grotesque, but at the same time very beautiful.
The Latest Departures and Arrivals In the Luxury Fashion Houses
It seems that departures and arrivals from and to the houses will continue in 2018.
In 2017, two creative directors stopped their long-term partnership: Phoebe Philo, who left Céline after 10 years and Christopher Bailey from Burberry after 17 years.
Now, designer Kim Jones exits Louis Vuitton where he has taken over men’s clothing.
“It has been a huge privilege to work with Kim,” said Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton. “His ability to set trends is impeccable,” Burke continues. “All of us who have been fortunate to work with Kim wish him continued success in his next venture.”
His collaboration with the French house began in 2011. The Saint Martins graduate’s collections exuded a traveling aesthetic inspired by his travels to Asia and Africa. We could say that Jones has an addiction to travel. But, he is also who brought streetwear to Louis Vuitton after his collaboration with Supreme, the famous New York-based streetwear brand, at the AW2017 show.
Many celebrities from the fashion world attended Jones’ last show under the name of Louis Vuitton. Virgil Abloh, Oliver Rousteing, and the Beckham family were among them.
However, the designer had a surprise for the attendees. Supermodels, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, appeared on the catwalk with whom he walked into the show’s finale.
As far as it concerns his next step, Jones has been mentioned as a potential designer for Burberry, after Bailey’s exit.
Also, new arrivals have occurred in several fashion houses. Former Chloé designer, Clare Waight Keller, succeeded Riccardo Tisci after leaving Givenchy in March 2017. And, Natacha Ramsay Levi took the helm after Keller’s departure from Chloé.
A few days ago, Hedi Slimane, one of the leading fashion designers joined Céline.
Recently, LVMH announced that Slimane, who previously served Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, takes on his role in February 2018, while his first collection will be shown in September during Paris Fashion Week.
In his new role, Slimane will be the artistic, creative and image director of Céline, while he will introduce a men’s collection and a fragrance.
“I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH group and taking the reins of our Céline maison,” said the LVMH chairman and CEO, Bernard Arnault. “He is one of the most talented designers of our
time. I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme (2000-2007). His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this maison.”
“I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline,” said Slimane. “ I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers.”
But actually, he never left fashion. Since Slimane left Saint Laurent, in April 2016, he continued to work on his photo projects, but he liked to talk publicly about his return to the fashion design.