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MFW F/W2018: La Divina Moda.

By Katerina Stamatopoulou

@katrinst

Hybrids. Clans. Cyborgs. Religion. Everything looked surreal in this still-real-world we live in.

                                                                                                                     February 21, 2018

Gucci

The fashion week in Milan initiated quite dynamically, shockingly dynamic someone would say. The invitation to Gucci had already prompted that the guests wouldn’t be watching an ordinary runway show. A timer in a plastic bag which counted in reverse until the beginning of the show, that was taking place in a surgery room. Alessandro Michele titled the Gucci show “Cyborg” after Donna Haraway’s 1984 “A Cyborg Manifesto” essay. Two models were carrying their own heads as accessories, another holding a dragon, and a third eye was staring from a model’s forehead. Living in a world full of uncertainty, where many questions have been risen and found no answers, Michele created a hybrid that surpasses dualisms and dichotomies. Velvet dresses, tweed jackets, distressed jeans, and furs covered with tulle. A futuristic collection with a grim touch. 

Moschino
It’s very obvious that Jackie Kennedy and Marilyn Monroe were the inspiration for Jeremy Scott’s fall collection for Moschino. Bobbed hair and pillbox hats were reminiscent of the First Lady, but with some Pop Art and alien characteristics. However, it was the bombshell who came out wearing evening looks because something’s got to give.

                                                                                                                     February 22, 2018

 

Max Mara
Max Mara is synonymous with powerful and beautiful outwear since its foundation day, back in 1951. With this collection, Max Mara wanted to gain the appreciation of a younger generation. Power dressing with some ’80s punk chic details created a very strong theme. Large coats, leather skirts teamed with slim pants, and T-shirts with Francoise Berthoud illustrations are waiting to be worn by powerful Millennial queens.

 

Fendi
“Romantic femininity for a powerful woman,” were Silvia Venturini Fendi’s words about the last collection. This time Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi focused on men’s fabrics and detailed tailoring. Double-breasted glossy coats in Prince of Wales checks, handkerchief linen transformed into coat collars and embroidered dresses, Texan boots, and the new version of Peekaboo bag, the Peekaboo X-Lite brought the perfect balance between strong lines and the delicacy of the ‘40s.

 

 

Prada
Miuccia Prada decided to match two opposing types of women in order to create a superwoman, who isn’t afraid to fight if needed while wearing something extremely feminine. On the one side, bustier, tulle, and sequins and on the other protective tight knit dresses, and jackets in neon colors were worn as armor. Also, the “Hot Rods” shoes are back, but with an upgrade and perfectly matched with the Fondazione Prada’s view of the post-industrial Milan.

                                                                                                                     February 23, 2018

 

Etro

Etro becomes 50 years old and the creative director, Veronica Etro wanted to celebrate it with the most Etro-ish way. Prints and glamorous bohemian aesthetics were the main ingredients for the “Folk Deco” collection. Fringes, suede boots, printed dresses and shearling jackets proved that stylish can be also cozy.

 

Versace
For the Italians, “La Famiglia” is the most important, and sacred, thing. The family is something that proves where you belong, it’s a form of identity. Maybe that was what Donatella Versace had in mind when she named the last collection “The Clans of Versace.” Tartans, African graphism, total monochrome mixed with a multitude of styles and decades. Many designs were from her brother Gianni, but Donatella produced a collection that belongs in the “Famiglia Versace”.

  • GUCCI

                                                                                                                     February 24, 2018

 

Giorgio Armani
“Inspired by many cultures as an ode to co-existence as opposed to exclusion,” were Giorgio Armani’s notes about the collection. Clothes in pale colors were succeeded by jackets and then by embellished gowns. The many fabrics created a collection that can travel around the world through textures and design. 

 

Missoni
Missoni is well-known for its zigzagging, multicolored knits. For this season, Angela Missoni created another story mixing Caribbean colors and references to Jamaican colorful layering. Icons such as Lisa Bonet, Basquiat and Hendrix were an inspiration for this ‘70s and early ‘80s super colorful collection. 

 

Jil Sander
A collection inspired by the sci-fi movie “2001: A Space Odyssey”, a nostalgia for what the future holds for humans. Outfits with references to astronaut uniforms that exhaled purity. “We’re surrounded by technology and AI and all these things that are always in the news and in the consciousness. We thought, ‘Why can’t the future be beautiful, soft and human also?’” said Luke Meier backstage.

 

                                                                                                                     February 25, 2018

 

Marni
“Techno-primitivism” is what Francesco Risso named his Fall 2018 Marni show – a contradiction in terms. Marni is a synonym to minimalism, yet this collection was dedicated to the use of contrasting colors, fabrics and prints. It was referring to that type of women who, at the same time, can combine fragility and powerfulness in a creative way. Well-constructed coats and dresses mixing two opposite fabrics produced a weird but very beautiful outcome.

 

Dolce & Gabbana
A Catholic ceremony with a touch of technology; that was Dolce&Gabbana. When the golden gates opened, eight drones appeared and each of them carried a D&G handbag. “Fashion Devotion” was the title of the collection, and not by chance. Every outfit was inspired by the Catholic church; the colors, the fabrics, the accessories. Even slogan printed t-shirts were referring to Church in some way. A collection made for sin. 

 

 

Tommy Hilfiger
All started in New York, went to London, then Beijing and now Milan, the fashion capital in Tommy Hilfiger’s mind. It was something like a World Tour or pit stop of racing cars. Hilfiger’s spring #TommyNow see-now-buy-now collection was not only a celebration of his love for fast cars but also a celebration of his partnership with Mercedes-AMG Petronas, through which he will be its official apparel partner. Racing tops and jackets with Hilfiger’s logo, stripes, denim and sheer dresses. Everything looked so authentic. And, Gigi Hadid was there to add more cuteness and youthfulness at this “Fast and Furious” show.

NYFW F/W2018: A Fashion State of Mind.

By Katerina Stamatopoulou

@katrinst

Flashbacks to past decades. Travels to foreign cultures and to the outer space. Romanticism and gothic aesthetic. Playfulness. This NYFW almost had it all.

February 8, 2018


Tom Ford
Tom Ford’s women’s fashion show was a true flashback to the flamboyant, glamorous and sexy ‘80’s. Oversized outwear with metallic, black and vibrant animal print leggings turned out to be Ford’s favorites. Once again, he proved that he is an impeccable tailor in tuxedo dressing. But, the supplemental eccentricity with a sense of humor, and a #MeToo moment with two ‘Pussy Power’ sparkling lettering handbags shows us that Tom Ford wants to provoke our animal instincts as well.

 

Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott turned his fashion show into a kaleidoscope of neon colors. The beauty of these fluorescent and almost hypnotic colors were not only on his clothes and accessories, but also to the wigs worn by the models. “The Fifth Element” influence was obvious. “Um, just to have fun! Remember that?” Scott said before the show began. Some frivolity is always welcomed when it comes to fashion.

February 9, 2018


Tory Burch
For this season, Tory Burch found herself somewhere between a romantic and a utilitarian place. Pink carnations decorated the catwalk, and the Chamber Orchestra of New York played sonnets while the models presented Burch’s creations. Tailored blazers, dresses with asymmetric hemlines, and graphic botanical prints decorated some of the clothes. In spite of the romantic mood, utility jackets brought a masculine element to the collection, which gave some yin to it’s yang.

 

Bottega Veneta
It was the first presentation of the Italian House in New York, so the show should be about New York. Tomas Maier’s inspiration was derived from the bold dress code of Studio 54. Silk jewel-toned pajama sets, oversized textured coats, intricate embroidered and color blocking dresses brought a lot of Art Deco patterns in mind.

 

February 10, 2018


Alexander Wang
The old Conde Nast building in Times Square became the runway of Alexander Wang’s fall show. The “Matrix” aesthetic was there to stay with some nods to ‘90s Armani, Chanel, Prada and Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” video. An old hair trend came back, and what else would it be but the giant plastic hair clip.

Stop trying to fit in, when you were born to stand out ! I did it the #PLEINway

A post shared by Philipp Plein (@philippplein78) on

 

Philipp Plein
Philipp Plein’s show was an ode to technology, space, and the rise of the robots. Irina Shayk’s unexpected escort stole the show. The model appeared from the just-landed spacecraft to join a giant robot on the ‘space station’ catwalk. Shayk with her “I love you Philipp Plein” skin-tight catsuit, took her giant partner by the hand, and under the sounds of “Fly Me to The Moon”, they walked together on the catwalk. 

 

February 11, 2018


Victoria Beckham
It’s been a decade since Victoria Beckham was introduced to us as a fashion designer. And, her recent collection was a celebration of Beckham’s British heritage. Most of the clothes had a utility detail. Military coats, oversized sweaters, wide belts, huge felted bags and square-toe long strap flats proved that minimal is not always boring.

 

Prabal Gurung
The Nepal-raised designer is a proud feminist supporter. For this season, Gurung was inspired by China’s matriarchal Mosuo tribe. Vibrant colors and a lot of cultural references at Eastern and Western civilizations created a glamorous and very feminine collection. 

 

February 12, 2018


Anna Sui
“Spin! Stop! Shoulder thrust! Hip thrust! Killer gaze!” The old-school way a model conquers the catwalk. Red, orange, and purple ruled the collection’s color palette and created a powerful psychedelic, flower-power, and early ‘60s aesthetic. Also, the mixing of the fabrics and the prints echoed pages of a ‘60s fashion magazine.

 

Carolina Herrera
After 37 years at the fashion’s service, Carolina Herrera decided to step down and give the reins of her House to her creative consultant, Wes Gordon. The white collared shirt and black bottoms are Herrera’s signature, and at her final show, she decided to pair it with colorful taffeta gown skirts. Something to remember, but not so classic. 

 

February 13, 2018


Coach 1941
“The Witch” could have been Stuart Vever’s inspiration since the mood of his collection and catwalk had something gothic, whimsical and “darkly romantic” as the designer said. Floral and paisley dresses in autumnal colors, long black coats, and leather-trimmed outwear were the main pieces of the 76-years-old American leather luxury brand’s autumn 2018 collection.

 

Calvin Klein
Raf Simons had a surprise for his attendants at Calvin Klein’s show. He filled the catwalk with popcorn! Moreover, the show’s installations had Andy Warhol’s prints on them, and it looked more like an art show than an ordinary fashion show. As for the collection, Simons presented many ‘Protection’ pieces. Workers’ outfits, rubber boots, oversized sweaters and coats, knitted hoods and a lot of popcorn!

 

February 14, 2018


Michael Kors
This collection was about Michael Kors’ favorite things and “for people who find joy in getting dressed,” as the designer said. ‘50s cocktail dresses, tartan outwear, animal prints accessories, and jacquards embroideries. All mixed up together. A collection of many possible outfit combinations. 

 

Marc Jacobs
What happens when Yves Saint Laurent meets Emanuel Ungaro, and suddenly Dick Tracy enters the room? Surely, a comic book aesthetic with puffed proportions but in luxury fabrics. Jacobs created a collection inspired by all those ‘80s characters, fictional or not. The oversized silhouettes and the so ‘80s color palette made his creations look almost grotesque, but at the same time very beautiful.  

 

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