LFW F/W2018: Hail the Fashion Mix!
Britishness. Color explosion. Print mix. Feminine empowerment. And Queen Elizabeth II first appearance at LFW. God save LFW!
February 16, 2018
Mulberry
“It’s all about the bag!” someone might think at the sound of the name Mulberry, the British well-known for its handbags brand. True but, the see-now, buy-now Spring 2018 collection was more like the tea party scene from Alice in Wonderland. A patisserie color palette and shoes with colorful ruffles and porcelain cups inspired rounded heels are the perfect choices for a garden party.
Matty Bovan
Matty Bovan is one of the rising stars on the London fashion scene. With his first solo show, he proved that he’s not only a good tailor since the main pieces of the collection were inspired by his late grandmother’s wardrobe, but he’s also a great showman. The tulle headdresses filled with balloons, designed by Stephen Jones, stole the show.
February 17, 2018
J.W. Anderson
“I was trying to think what is modern today and what is modern is what is next. Now is an amazing moment of clear-out and I think let’s go and find what’s new,” Jonathan Anderson said about his collection. He had to look back to his first collections and get inspiration from them. Paisleys, trench coats and khakis. It was a very different collection to what he does for LOEWE. It was a younger and more optimistic collection.
Burberry
Christopher Bailey’s last show for Burberry was a TIME to remember. This time wasn’t about Burberry, it was about a celebration of individuality. To that end, Bailey showed everything he believes in. Gay rights, optimism, youthfulness, and British streetwear were a look back to all those years he worked at Burberry. The bright LGBTQ+ rainbow colors appeared in most pieces, which became the signature of his last collection.
Gareth Pugh
This collection was all about power dressing. For once more, Pugh demolished the feminine silhouette and created a stiffer and more well-constructed one. Pagoda-shouldered tailoring, high-waisted trousers, leopard prints and a Hellraiser nail helmet made the collection serious armor. No one will ever dare to mess around with a Pugh’s woman.
February 18, 2018
Roland Mouret
“The Eyes of Laura Mars,” a 1978 movie, starring Faye Dunaway, is about power, femininity and image control. One of Roland Mouret’s favorite movies and the inspiration for his collection. He wanted to address the current theme of women’s harassment in the workplace, and he did it. Tapestry-like fabrics, wrap skirts but also laced dresses and football socks gave his collection the perfect balance between sensuality and modesty.
Mary Katrantzou
Mary Katrantzou is the “Queen of Prints,” and once again she demonstrated that she can reduce the distance between two very different design styles. Her “Interior Lives” collection was inspired by furniture and prints from William Morris and Bauhaus. A very paradoxical marriage with a very creative outcome. And yes, a Chesterfield sofa can turn into a bomber jacket!
February 19, 2018
Erdem
For his melancholy collection, Erdem Moralioglu chose as his inspiration the American vaudeville star Adele Astaire, sister of Fred Astaire. Beautiful, rich and romantic this collection could only be named. A showgirl who married an aristocrat. A collision of two different worlds. On the one side sparkling dresses and glittering capes, on the other jacquard dresses and thin black face veils. It worked since his collection told the story he had in mind.
Christopher Kane
“I’ve always been about human behavior, and I’ve always had some sort of sexual behavior in the collections,” Christopher Kane said after he presented his “The Joy of Sex “ by Alex Comfort illustrations inspired collection. Dominatrix leather dresses, knits that revealed the bra strap, and a lot of lace, “lover’s lace” as it called. Beautiful, provocative and sensual collection.
February 20, 2018
Richard Quinn
“She’s known for her sense of humor, and she’s seen a lot in her life. I don’t think a gimp mask will shock the Queen,” Richard Quinn said about the possible need of muting the designer’s signature bondage theme due to Queen Elizabeth II’s attendance at his show. Quinn’s collection was a tribute to Her Majesty’s Balmoral wardrobe. Prints, scarves beautifully paired with pleated chiffon skirts and oversized bomber jackets. At the end of the show, Quinn was awarded by Her Majesty with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, as a recognition of his talent and contribution to the fashion community.
What You Need To Know About Model Release Forms
Model release forms are documents that, if signed, give photographers/clients the right to use your image and likeness through any still or video footage that they have taken of you. Release forms were not used that often before the advancements in technology and social media, but now they seem to be the norm for every shoot.
Part of your agent’s job is to negotiate how and where your final images or film will be used and for how long. This is partly because the client’s use of your likeness can affect your rate. In general, more specifically advertising, greater exposure commands a higher rate, or ‘usage fee’. But, it is also dependent on the budget or brand.
Agents and clients occasionally draw up written contracts to formalize their agreements. They will include rates and usage, plus any non-disclosures or exclusivity clauses. However, clients may still give you release forms to sign at shoots, despite having contracts in place.
DON’T GET CAUGHT OUT
Although clients may have your agent pre-approve their releases or adjust them to match the contracts; there are a few that won’t. Call your agency the moment you receive any model releases that you weren’t alerted about before going on set. Your agent will let you know if you need to make any corrections or alterations to it.
Signing a release without your agent’s permission can potentially hinder your modeling career. You could be authorizing the client rights to unlimited usage of the images, for an unlimited amount of time and without further reimbursement to you.
WHAT TO DO WHEN GIVEN A RELEASE FORM
Should you feel pressured into signing a release, politely inform the client that you are under contract that prevents you from signing anything without your agency’s consent. Additionally, you can say that you would be happy to forward it to your agent for approval.
Bravo! Condé Nast: The Media Company Implements A Code Of Conduct For Photoshoots
It has been a tumultuous time of late. With the rise of the #MeToo movement, and it’s effect on not only Hollywood but many other industries, including Fashion. Both men and women have spoken up about their experiences which are truly difficult to stomach. But at last, it seems like society is finally addressing this serious situation. Even if we think it’s, ‘a little too late,’ there are changes being made to protect all genders in the workplace going forward.
In this month’s issue of Vogue, Anna Wintour announces in her Letter from the Editor that the global media company, Condé Nast, which owns the glossy magazine, had recently created guidelines to specifically protect models from, “manipulation, coercion, and abuse while on set.” While this code of conduct was already enforced by January 2018, it was rather impressive to see it written in print, penned by the queen of fashion herself. The new Condé Nast guidelines include:
All models appearing in fashion shoots must be eighteen years of age or older. The only exceptions will be those appearing as themselves as part of a profile or news story, and they will be required to have a chaperone on set at all times.
Alcohol will no longer be allowed on Condé Nast sets. Recreational drugs will not be allowed.
Photographers will no longer be permitted to use a Condé Nast set for any work that is not commissioned or approved by the company.
Any shoot involving nudity, sheer clothing, lingerie, swimwear, simulated drug or alcohol use, or sexually suggestive poses must be approved in advance by the subject.
Although, there are already child model laws set in place that should cover some of these points. Condé Nast also made specifications for location shoots and travel.
We recommend that a model should not be alone with a photographer, makeup artist or other contributor participating in a Condé Nast shoot.
Throughout the shoot, including any related travel, photographers and videographers may not shoot anyone engaged by or through Condé Nast other than as requested by Condé Nast.
Read the full Condé Nast code of conduct here
I fully commend Condé Nast for their shift in doing business, and hopefully other companies will follow suit. Bravo!
Workout Wednesdays: Leg Day with David Kait.
Workout Wednesday - with David Kait
We are thrilled to be working out with David Kait again. It's leg day, just to keep you strong while walking those miles during show season!
Below is the equipment you need, and if you don't have a kettlebell, there are some household objects that are great alternatives.
Deuserband
Kettlebell - Check out portable kettlebells for traveling
Bench/chair
Watch David explain the movement and form of each exercise - Then GO FOR IT!
1) Squat with Kettlebell 3 x 15 reps
2) Jumping Lunges 3 x 16 reps
3) Lateral Lunges with Kettlebell 3 x 16 reps
4) Calf Raises 3 x 10 reps each leg
5) Leg Extension with Deuserband 3 x 8 reps each leg
6) Abductors - Adductors with Deuserband 3 x 8 reps each leg
7) Pistol Squat 2 x as many reps as you can
Mother Agent: Stars Management
Cooking with FMD: Katia’s Green Smoothie
Katia's Green Smoothie
Needing to eat more greens, but you can't stand the taste or texture? California based model and avid cook, Katia Coate, has a smoothie recipe that is so sweet and refreshing that you won't believe you are drinking a full day's serving of spinach.
RECIPE
1-2 cups Spinach/ Baby Kale
1 Banana
1 1/2 cups Frozen Pineapple
Ginger (to taste)
1/2 Lemon
1 cup Water/ Milk / Milk Substitute
Mother Agent: Stars Management
NYFW F/W2018: A Fashion State of Mind.
Flashbacks to past decades. Travels to foreign cultures and to the outer space. Romanticism and gothic aesthetic. Playfulness. This NYFW almost had it all.
February 8, 2018
Tom Ford
Tom Ford’s women’s fashion show was a true flashback to the flamboyant, glamorous and sexy ‘80’s. Oversized outwear with metallic, black and vibrant animal print leggings turned out to be Ford’s favorites. Once again, he proved that he is an impeccable tailor in tuxedo dressing. But, the supplemental eccentricity with a sense of humor, and a #MeToo moment with two ‘Pussy Power’ sparkling lettering handbags shows us that Tom Ford wants to provoke our animal instincts as well.
Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott turned his fashion show into a kaleidoscope of neon colors. The beauty of these fluorescent and almost hypnotic colors were not only on his clothes and accessories, but also to the wigs worn by the models. “The Fifth Element” influence was obvious. “Um, just to have fun! Remember that?” Scott said before the show began. Some frivolity is always welcomed when it comes to fashion.
February 9, 2018
Tory Burch
For this season, Tory Burch found herself somewhere between a romantic and a utilitarian place. Pink carnations decorated the catwalk, and the Chamber Orchestra of New York played sonnets while the models presented Burch’s creations. Tailored blazers, dresses with asymmetric hemlines, and graphic botanical prints decorated some of the clothes. In spite of the romantic mood, utility jackets brought a masculine element to the collection, which gave some yin to it’s yang.
Bottega Veneta
It was the first presentation of the Italian House in New York, so the show should be about New York. Tomas Maier’s inspiration was derived from the bold dress code of Studio 54. Silk jewel-toned pajama sets, oversized textured coats, intricate embroidered and color blocking dresses brought a lot of Art Deco patterns in mind.
February 10, 2018
Alexander Wang
The old Conde Nast building in Times Square became the runway of Alexander Wang’s fall show. The “Matrix” aesthetic was there to stay with some nods to ‘90s Armani, Chanel, Prada and Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” video. An old hair trend came back, and what else would it be but the giant plastic hair clip.
Stop trying to fit in, when you were born to stand out ! I did it the #PLEINway
A post shared by Philipp Plein (@philippplein78) on
Philipp Plein
Philipp Plein’s show was an ode to technology, space, and the rise of the robots. Irina Shayk’s unexpected escort stole the show. The model appeared from the just-landed spacecraft to join a giant robot on the ‘space station’ catwalk. Shayk with her “I love you Philipp Plein” skin-tight catsuit, took her giant partner by the hand, and under the sounds of “Fly Me to The Moon”, they walked together on the catwalk.
February 11, 2018
Victoria Beckham
It’s been a decade since Victoria Beckham was introduced to us as a fashion designer. And, her recent collection was a celebration of Beckham’s British heritage. Most of the clothes had a utility detail. Military coats, oversized sweaters, wide belts, huge felted bags and square-toe long strap flats proved that minimal is not always boring.
Prabal Gurung
The Nepal-raised designer is a proud feminist supporter. For this season, Gurung was inspired by China’s matriarchal Mosuo tribe. Vibrant colors and a lot of cultural references at Eastern and Western civilizations created a glamorous and very feminine collection.
@kaiagerber twirling down the runway in a luxe metallic parka! ✨ #AnnaSuiFall18 Regram: @wwd
A post shared by Anna Sui (@annasui) on
February 12, 2018
Anna Sui
“Spin! Stop! Shoulder thrust! Hip thrust! Killer gaze!” The old-school way a model conquers the catwalk. Red, orange, and purple ruled the collection’s color palette and created a powerful psychedelic, flower-power, and early ‘60s aesthetic. Also, the mixing of the fabrics and the prints echoed pages of a ‘60s fashion magazine.
Carolina Herrera
After 37 years at the fashion’s service, Carolina Herrera decided to step down and give the reins of her House to her creative consultant, Wes Gordon. The white collared shirt and black bottoms are Herrera’s signature, and at her final show, she decided to pair it with colorful taffeta gown skirts. Something to remember, but not so classic.
February 13, 2018
Coach 1941
“The Witch” could have been Stuart Vever’s inspiration since the mood of his collection and catwalk had something gothic, whimsical and “darkly romantic” as the designer said. Floral and paisley dresses in autumnal colors, long black coats, and leather-trimmed outwear were the main pieces of the 76-years-old American leather luxury brand’s autumn 2018 collection.
Calvin Klein
Raf Simons had a surprise for his attendants at Calvin Klein’s show. He filled the catwalk with popcorn! Moreover, the show’s installations had Andy Warhol’s prints on them, and it looked more like an art show than an ordinary fashion show. As for the collection, Simons presented many ‘Protection’ pieces. Workers’ outfits, rubber boots, oversized sweaters and coats, knitted hoods and a lot of popcorn!
February 14, 2018
Michael Kors
This collection was about Michael Kors’ favorite things and “for people who find joy in getting dressed,” as the designer said. ‘50s cocktail dresses, tartan outwear, animal prints accessories, and jacquards embroideries. All mixed up together. A collection of many possible outfit combinations.
Marc Jacobs
What happens when Yves Saint Laurent meets Emanuel Ungaro, and suddenly Dick Tracy enters the room? Surely, a comic book aesthetic with puffed proportions but in luxury fabrics. Jacobs created a collection inspired by all those ‘80s characters, fictional or not. The oversized silhouettes and the so ‘80s color palette made his creations look almost grotesque, but at the same time very beautiful.
Workout Wednesdays: Three Online Workouts We Love
Workout Wednesday - Three of our favorite workout websites
Happy Wednesday! If you’re looking for a new workout routine, but you don’t want to be joining a gym or studio because of your life on the road, these three websites are worth checking out.
YogaGlo
YogaGlo is a website where you can customize your own private yoga and meditation classes taught by certified yoga instructors. Whether you have five minutes or two hours to dedicate to a yoga sesh – you can select not only your time frame, but your level of expertise, and any adjustments due to injuries. They offer a 15-day free trial. However, their membership fees are still very affordable compared to the cost of a yoga studio. Plus, you can choose whenever and wherever you wish to take your class.
YogaGlo.com (membership: $18 per month)
Ballet Beautiful
Ballet Beautiful is designed to sculpt sleek, lean, and toned muscles as well as improve flexibility and posture. If this isn’t an ideal model workout, we don’t know what is! Developed by Mary Helen Bowers, who after training Natalie Portman for her role in the Black Swan has been coveted by countless A-list celebs and supermodels, including Miranda Kerr and Karlie Kloss. But, don’t worry; you don’t have to be a dancer or gymnast to be able to follow Bowers’ instructions. Ballet Beautiful is for everyone, and you can also customize her workouts to suit your ability and needs.
BalletBeautiful.com (membership: $39.99 per month)
Spartan
Need something a little more gritty and muscle pumping? Try the infamous Spartan Race ‘Workout Of The Day’. You simply have to sign up using your email address, and you will get your daily marching orders from the Spartan boot camp in your inbox. Yes, you will be training like Spartan competitors so why not check to see if there is a future race in your area and give that a go while you’re at it. Aroo!
www.Spartan.com (free through archives or get a membership through Daily Burn)
Living In The Echo Of Paris Haute Couture Week 2018
The Paris Haute Couture Week finished only two weeks ago but we have a lot of things to remember..
New York Fashion Week commenced February 18th, but Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2018 still lingers on the minds of everyone in the fashion world. A lot of things happened and once more Paris, La Ville Lumière (The City of Light), has been able to demonstrate that it can draw attention not just for the breath-taking and skillfully designed clothes that are presented in every Paris Fashion Week.
A new exhibition pays tribute to the late fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa, who passed away last November. The 41 dresses that are displayed are a short fashion design journey over time. The “Je suis couturier” exhibition runs until June 10th, 2018 at 18 rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris.
Jean Paul Gaultier, l’enfant terrible, paid homage to Pierre Cardin, the fashion house where he started his career as a designer. The collection was a marriage of Cardin’s futuristic style and Gaultier’s provocative design. But, what stole the show was when Coco Rocha took the runway with her two-year-old daughter, Ioni Conran. A new girl comes in town, and Couture is now more adorable than ever.
After Dior’s surrealistic inspired collection at the Musèe Rodin, a masquerade party took place where all guests were dressed in their tuxedos, gowns and their playful face masks.
Smartphones have ruled the front row of the fashion shows, and so John Galliano took advantage of this ‘reality’ for his latest haute couture collection for Maison Margiela. A special holographic fabric was used in most pieces of the collection. When the viewer took a photo with flash, the fabric transformed from black nylon to a shimmering holographic panel. Enough psychedelic to prove that haute couture can be modern, too.
Ornate hats used to be the hallmark of haute couture several years ago. For this season, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino’s creative director, utilized for the first-time hats that were created by the British hatter, Philip Treacy.
Fancy feathered hats in bright colors adorned models’ heads. Despite the old extravagant look, there was a modern spirit in the collection. Wearing a tank top and a pair of chinos with a huge feathered hat is a powerful statement.
Paris Haute Couture Week was a true tour through the Parisian museums. Sometimes, it was like visiting the Louvre and Centre Georges Pompidou at the same time.
Workout Wednesdays: Chest And Back Exercises With David Kait
Workout Wednesday - with David Kait
David Kait has a chest and back exercise routine that will leave you feeling toned and strong. No need to go to the gym, you can do this workout anywhere! All you need is:
Deuserband
Kettlebell - Check out portable kettlebells for traveling
Dumbbells
Watch David explain the movement and form of each exercise - Then GO FOR IT!
1) Ground Rowing with Deuserband 3x12 reps
2) Deadlift with Deuserband 3x12 reps
3) Single arm Kettlebell Row 3x10 reps each arm
4) Horizontal Fly on the bench 3 x as many reps as you can
5) Explosive Push-up 3 x 25 reps
6) Dumbbell Press on the bench 3 x 12 reps
7) Single chest fly with Deuserband 3 x8 reps each arm
8) Chest squeeze push-up 3 x 12 reps
