Booking Out
To book out or not book out, that is the question....
WHAT IS A BOOK OUT?
Booking out is to inform your agent when you are not available for modeling jobs or castings. For example, you might have an upcoming doctor’s appointment or vacation or starting a new school semester.
Your agent automatically assumes that you are available during business hours unless you book out. It saves them from having to call you whenever a client inquires about your schedule. Otherwise, your agent will spend more time chasing up on your availability, rather than procuring you more bookings.
WHEN TO BOOK OUT:
To minimize any frustrations or conflicts for you, your agent, and the clients; get into the habit of notifying your agent the moment you add a commitment to your schedule. If it is something that you can't change, or you are not prepared to change- you must book it out.
Helpful hint: Make sure you relay the exact times and dates you will be unavailable, and also mention if you will be local, out of town, or out of the country. This way your agent will know if they can work around your book outs for last minute projects.
CANCEL ONLY FOR EMERGENCIES:
Keep in mind that once you have agreed to and confirmed a casting, option, or booking, never cancel for any reason other than a family or medical emergency. Your commitment to your word is the heartbeat of your integrity, and you will earn a reputation for being reliable and trustworthy.
Cellphone Etiquette
Nobody leaves home without one, so we thought we might highlight some cell phone etiquette for you to consider the next time you reach for your iPhone or Android during appointments and bookings.
WHEN IT'S OK TO USE YOUR PHONE:
WHILE ON A JOB - Limit cell phone use to lunch or coffee breaks, and switch your phone to silent mode for the duration of the booking. Although plugging yourself into your device is generally accepted during any downtime - which may be a lot, it is important to remain attentive to your surroundings and make conversation with your colleagues. This way, you will not come across as an introvert or disconnected, and you will also be aware of when the client needs you on set.
AT CASTINGS AND APPOINTMENTS - Phone calls should be made before and after castings, fittings, go-sees and other business related appointments, and silence all notifications and ringtones. If you are not distracted by your phone, you won't miss any important instructions or cues.
EXCEPTIONS:
SAFETY - If a serious issue arises during a modeling appointment or job, such as; you feel that you are in danger, or being exploited, call your agency immediately to notify your agent. You should also report any criminal incident to law enforcement.
WORK OR EMERGENCY RELATED CALLS - Although we suggest not using your phone during bookings and appointments, you may find yourself waiting for hours at a casting or on the sidelines of a photo shoot, in which case it is acceptable to make and receive business or personal emergency phone calls.
Cara Delevingne by Ellen von Unwerth for the Sunday Times Style Spring 2016 Cover
PHONE FAUX PAS:
SELFIES IN THE ARTIST'S CHAIR - Most stylists and artists don't mind the selfies or Snapchat filtered videos while you're sitting in the hair and makeup chair or trying on an outfit. Occasionally, they like to join in the fun and record their creative masterpieces. However, don't let it get in the way of what they are trying to do - their job. They too are hired by the client and on a strict schedule. Even scrolling through your phone can be just as frustrating for an artist, because they need you to follow their instructions while they apply makeup, style, and groom you. Resist the urge to bring out the camera phone until the artist says it's OK, and there's spare time to Snapchat away.
NOISY NOTIFICATIONS AND PHONE CALLS- Loud phone conversations and constant pinging of texts and messages are very off putting for everyone around you. Go to a discreet place to make your calls, when it's appropriate, and keep your phone on silent.
INDISCREET CHATTER - Be careful with your conversations. Avoid speaking negatively when you are around a client or their team, even when you think they are out of earshot. A casual phone conversation with a friend about an uncomfortable outfit or a long day could potentially offend the client. Additionally, profane or aggressive conversations are inappropriate in any professional environment.
EDITORIAL: The New Faces Of L.A.
The Importance Of Reading Your Business Emails
In today’s world, we communicate more via text and email than talk on the phone. It makes life easy, especially when receiving large amounts of information. We don’t need to write it all down, nor does it interrupt with whatever we are doing. However, many of us have a bad habit of scanning over our emails and texts, instead of actually reading them.
When it comes to business, or in any aspect of life, glancing over important emails can lead to miscommunication and misunderstandings. When your agent emails casting or booking details, they often include specific instructions. It takes time to put this information together and relay it to you. By reading the whole email and following directions, it will save a lot of stress and hassle for you, your agent, and the client.
To avoid any complications, awkward situations, or miscommunication; always read business-related emails very carefully. Also, try to get to them as soon as you can. If you feel that some of the information could be missing, like grooming prep, contact person, or brings, you will have time to check with your agent. Keep in mind that he or she may be having a super busy day, or waiting to hear from the client for further instructions.
How To Get Representation In Multiple Markets
If you are looking to travel, and your mother agent feels that you are ready, there are a few ways your mother agent can get you representation in another city or country. Yes, leave it to your mother agent. The reason being is that not only does he or she have connections with agents around the globe, but also knows which markets are appropriate for you and your success. Not all markets have the same clientele, therefore, the requirements for models will differ too. Furthermore, there can be laws, regulations and age restrictions that might effect your ability to work in certain cities. Below are the ways your mother agent can help you get opportunities to travel. However, keep in mind that they do not guarantee you representation in these other markets, as it remains dependent on the decisions of the agents in those cities:
Submit your materials to agents via email.
Your portfolio and digitals will be sent to the appropriate agents for their feedback
Arrange appointments for you to visit agencies in another market.
Whether you are traveling to a city for vacation or specifically for your career; your mother agent can arrange for you to visit the local model agencies. Your mother agent will usually email your portfolio to the agents in advance before they agree to meet with you in person.
Hold a casting for a visiting agent or scout.
Agents and scouts travel around to many cities, including yours, in search of new faces to represent in their markets. If your mother agent feels that they would consider you for representation, you will be called into your agency to meet with them. On the other hand, the visiting agent or scout may see your portfolio and request to meet you for a go-see.
An agent notices your portfolio online and contacts your mother agent.
Agents regularly browse through each other’s websites. It is not uncommon for an agent to see a new face and call up the model’s mother agent in hopes to represent him or her in their market.
In any of the above circumstances, the agency will ask your mother agent to provide them with:
- Your current digitals in a bathing suit or underwear.
- Your current measurements.
- A video of you introducing yourself and doing a runway walk.
If they feel that you have the right model requirements, confidence, and experience for their market; the agency will offer you representation.
Chargebacks: What Are They And Why Do Models Have Them?
When your agency issues your checks, based on the compensation received from your clients, you will notice that there are deductions. These deductions are known as “chargebacks.”
Chargebacks are advances the agency makes on your behalf, which could include:
- Portfolios
- Prints.
- Comp cards.
- Agency promotional packages.
- Test shoots.
- Website maintenance fee.
- Airline tickets.
- Hotels.
- Model Apartments
- Car Service.
- Courier fees.
When your client requires you to travel for a job, or another agency invites you to work in their market, the agency may advance the cost of the flight and accommodation. You should make sure to keep track of all the advanced expenses so that you have a record to compare to the deductions made from your check. The accounting department in any agency, upon request, will give you a list of your chargebacks.
In the event that your contract is not renewed or is terminated by your agency, any remaining chargebacks will be due and payable at that time.
As in any career, your investment, whether it is in promotional materials or travel to different markets, enhances your ability to become a successful model.
Don’t forget to consult your accountant to find out which chargebacks, if any, are tax deductible.
How To Have A Better Working Relationship With Your Agent
HOW TO HAVE A BETTER WORKING RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR AGENT Behind every successful model there is a talented agent. The model-agent relationship involves a tremendous amount of teamwork and trust. Without the support and guidance from an agent, your career can only go so far. However, without your professionalism and trust, the agent is limited to what he or she can do for you. In the words of Jerry Maguire, your agent is saying, “Help me help you!”
#1 ALWAYS BE ON TIME – FOR EVERYTHING! Or better yet, five minutes early. Agents see tardiness as a liability. When you confirm a booking or appointment with a client, your agent makes a promise on your behalf that you will arrive at the designated time. When that promise is broken, clients not only lose their faith in you but your agent too. Timely models are reliable and therefore more enjoyable to work with. NOTE: This also goes for any meetings that you have with your agent!
#2 BE PROACTIVE Modeling is a job like any other; the more you put in, the more you get out of it. This is a multi-billion dollar industry full of professionals that work very hard and will expect you to do the same. The competition is fierce, with models that may be taller or have a clearer complexion, so why should your agent promote you? You are upbeat, knowledgeable, and have a good work ethic. Take time to learn the business, check in with your agent, update your digitals and portfolio, and keep all necessary work permits, visas, and passport valid.
#3 MAINTAIN YOUR APPEARANCE Agents must have a good impression of their models, not just professionally but physically too, in order to promote them. Always present your best ‘self’ when visiting the agency. Looking like you just rolled out of bed will make your agent believe that you go to castings the same way- and less inclined to send you to clients. Additionally, taking care of your skin and body is vital to your success. Eat healthy, workout, get quality sleep, have good hygiene and skincare regime, and lastly drink LOTS of water!
#4 BE AVAILABLE AND ALWAYS RETURN YOUR AGENT’S PHONECALLS, EMAILS, TEXTS & MESSAGES ASAP. Always respond to your agent, and ASAP! This is a fast-paced business of which you are part of the team. Check your emails, voicemails, and texts regularly, and keep your phone charged. One minute could make a difference between you getting a confirmed job or it going to someone else. Say “Yes” to as many opportunities as you can. Modeling is a numbers game; the more castings you go to, the more jobs you are likely to get.
#5 BE PREPARED FOR ANY MODELING RELATED APPOINTMENTS OR JOBS 24/7. Getting a casting or booking in less than an hour's notice happens – a lot! To arrive on time, looking polished and well organized, always have your model bag ready, with a clean casting outfit, underwear (female models should have a nice matching set), and bathing suit for last minute digitals and fittings and maintain your grooming routine every day. Not only will the client be impressed, but it will also reflect well on your agent. NOTE: Don't forget to keep your phone charged!- #6 TRUST YOUR AGENT AND HAVE OPEN COMMUNICATION For you and your agent to be simpatico, it is important that you feel comfortable talking with him or her. Aside from discussing aspirations and ideas, it is very helpful to mention anything that could affect your career; whether it involves your health, relationships, education, or family. They may be able to offer ways for you to manage modeling with your personal life. Your agent is there to guide and advise you. Although you may not always agree with their suggestions; trust that your agent will exhaust all avenues to help you achieve your goals. Know that through their years of experience, your agent can recognize what is best for your career. After all, agents do not want to waste your time, or theirs. Keep in mind that he or she is giving you their professional, not personal, opinions – and always in your best interests. Remember, honesty is the best policy.
#7 DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING WITHOUT THE AGENCY’S APPROVAL. Models are often pressured into signing release forms, while on shoots and at runway shows. In this situation, you must contact your agent immediately. Your agent negotiates the best rate for your bookings along with any usage, non-disclosures, or exclusivity clauses; while protecting your image and likeness. However, If you sign a release without your agent’s approval, you might be undoing all their work, and giving away yours. For your own protection, and keeping the teamwork going to increase your success; never sign anything or offer your personal information without your agent’s prior knowledge.
#8 HAVE PATIENCE, STAY POSITIVE, AND AVOID COMPARING YOURSELF TO OTHER MODELS. Don’t let your anxieties get in the way of your ability to be objective about yourself and your career. It is understandably difficult to keep positive in the face of rejection. Focus on what you are doing, instead of what you're not. Keep busy with testing, updating digitals, or practicing your runway walk. Also, find ways to ease the pressure and frustrations through meditation, going to the gym, hanging out with friends or finding a new hobby. Your energy will be a lot more positive and approachable. But most importantly, never compare yourself to anyone else. Each model is different; in both features and personality. Like in all businesses, some models will go further than others. Assuming that you should be doing everything your model friend is doing can lead you to unnecessary frustration. Focus on your own journey and appreciate the accomplishments you achieve.
Interview with STORM’S Noelle Doukas And Christopher Yianoullou
Noelle and Christopher have over twenty-five years experience between them, spent working at the forefront of the modeling industry. Both agents exude bright dynamic personalities with an obvious passion for the talent they represent.
We chat about STORM, which has been one of the most influential model agencies since Sarah Doukas, Noelle’s mother, opened its doors in 1987, and move onto the innovations within the market and the changes of their model requirements.
FMD: What are the key attributes that STORM looks for when scouting for models?
Chris: We look for standards like height and beautiful skin and great bone structure, but our industry has started to celebrate the more unique aspects of the girl – who she is and what she’s about; her style, her personality. There is much more to it, and you can’t just scout by looking at someone, you really need to talk to that person and get a feel for who they are. Clients like ASOS and Urban Outfitters want to do more profile pieces, and they want real people, so it makes it more fun for us because [models] don’t have to be strictly 5’10” minimum anymore. It’s more flexible, and more fun; so yeah it’s about character more than anything really.
FMD: Whenever you bring international models into London; what is your process, and does STORM have specific facilities to accommodate them?
Noelle: It all depends on how long you are bringing girls in for, and also what you are bringing them in for. There are some girls we bring in for periods of time, say two to three months; in which case you set them up in a house. We do have model apartments, but we also have a wide range of people who are like second moms who look after them, because it is quite daunting if they have never been into the territory before. Obviously, if it’s a girl who has never been to the UK, we take a bit of time explaining how to get around, because the girls have go-sees or castings every day. They probably have four to five castings a day. So, they kind of hit the ground running really. Sometimes, we try to set them up with other girls so they get a feel for what they are doing. We do have an assistant on board that goes through everything with them, and gives them a UK phone and tries to introduce them to transport etc. London’s enormous isn’t it, so expecting these girls to go to appointment to appointment is really quite daunting.
FMD: Are the castings based in London or all over the UK?
Noelle: They are completely sporadic. With castings, you can’t dictate what time it is, what area it is, so a girl could be coming from E1 and then having to go to SE11 (London postcodes with a distance of five miles) and she’s got a small amount of time to do it. If you get a bigger international girl, say she’s here for three days, it’s easier to put them in a car. They are doing a ton of appointments a day, back to back. I mean, since Uber’s come around it’s changed things quite a bit. It’s not that expensive to Uber from one place to another.
FMD: Uber’s made a model’s life a lot easier.
Noelle: It makes it probably a lot easier. I do feel for them though. I have done go-sees and castings with one girl once, and I thought, “I do feel sorry for them.”
Chris: It’s not as glamorous as you think.
FMD: Describe the London Market and Clientele.
Noelle: Well, I think first of all we’ve got the best editorial, I would say in the world, because we have the high-end publications like Vogue, Harpers, and Elle, and we also have the really kind of cool magazines like Dazed, and Wonderland. Now, there are a lot of online publications, there’s a pop-up magazine every day.
Chris: It’s a super creative city, with all the great designers and fashion schools. The students’ work is incredible here.
Noelle: It’s a good market to develop a girl because, as I’ve said, when we’ve got such a wide range of editorials; it’s good to develop their books. But, I think another great thing about London is that we have the advertising, the catalogues, and the E-com, and so a girl is pretty much guaranteed to make a nice amount of money. I mean the British pound is pretty shocking at the moment, but prior to that, it was great! No, it’s a great city! Our Fashion week is better than it ever has been before. I think a lot more girls are coming to London to do the shows, it’s a lot more relevant. So, I would say London’s definitely kind of an all-rounder. You know the only other thing is there is not as much competition, because most girls base themselves in New York, at which point you’re competing with x amount of girls, as opposed to a less amount of cool, international new faces.
FMD: How easy is it for new models to acclimate to the London Market?
Chris: I think for the younger girls it’s actually quite nice. We’re an English speaking country; the Tube (Underground) is pretty self-explanatory, and the English culture is very polite, and we like to help!
Noelle: They do get chaperoned though, if they are too young. We’d never let a girl under eighteen go out on her own, ever.
Chris: Yeah, and that also helps when they get settled in, there’s an English person there to teach them the ropes, the underground etc., how it works. We’ve never had any problems.
FMD: You mentioned that STORM has model apartments; are there strict rules enforced for the people staying in them?
Noelle: I wish we did, it’s a nightmare! It’s funny, model apartments are generally there for brand new girls, but sometimes girls end up living there for a couple of years. Some girls are actually messier maybe than boys, from what the cleaners tell us. (laugh)
Chris: Yeah, it’s bad! (laugh)
Noelle: It’s not good! It’s not good! I can’t understand it because I think if you can do this to someone else’s house, would you actually do this in your own house? I don’t think they would. Occasionally, we have to get pest control, painters and decorators coming in, or there are doors being broken off hinges or whatever it is. They’re young kids aren’t they; they’re not at home with their parents. I do get girls specifically saying, “I don’t want to stay in a model apartment”. We have a group of really lovely people who rent out rooms, and you know, I think they like it, the international girls who’ve not been here before, they feel kind of nurtured. It’s actually nice to be in a family environment.
FMD: What would you say are the most important qualities models should have?
Noelle: A voice and a personality for sure. I’ve seen the most beautiful girls in the world that have no personality, and I’m not meaning that in a derogative way, I just mean that, I think it’s like dating actually; you can think ‘oh, you’re fairly attractive’, but it’s the connection you have that actually develops how they come across, how you relate to that person – and actually personalities can make or break someone. You meet someone who’s really arrogant and full of themselves, and all that beauty just completely diminishes, whereas someone with a great personality can win you over in a different way, and you see a totally different side of them.
For me, if I were a casting director, it would be that. And it’s interesting to see how [it affects modeling], say you bring in a girl you don’t know particularly well, and she gets 30 options in a month and not one of them confirms, you start to think ‘there’s something not quite right there’, or you can get a girl that you weren’t entirely sure about but she has an amazing personality and her chart is full of red confirmations.
Chris: It’s true though!
FMD: Is there a common mistake that stands out as something models repeat over and over again?
Noelle: I would probably say approaching things with too much negativity.
Chris: Yeah, I was about to say that – or over thinking.
Noelle: When they start to analyze too much, girls can get very down on themselves, and I think that can come across to people. You can get yourself into a hole and it’s difficult to climb back out of it.
But I think it’s like that for everyone, for everything in life. I always write my Gratitudes down every day, things that I’m grateful for. If you try and make yourself feel more positive, then positivity comes back to you. But, I think when you go into anything with a negative view; it’s not going to turn itself around. You’ve got to be strong, and I think you’ve got to have a strong backbone. But saying this, I personally wouldn’t want to be judged on my looks every day of my life. It takes a certain quality of person.
Chris: Yeah, everyone thinks it’s an easy job, but…
Noelle: It’s one of the hardest. The worst thing a girl could ever do is to have a negative view on the industry, or herself, or whatever it is, you know, unless they’re enjoying it, loving it, I try to discourage them doing it at all. Because I think they’re so young, surely in that age group you’re supposed to be having the time of your life, not scrutinizing every part of yourself.
Agent Drop-In: STORM Management
Miranda Cantacuzene-Speransky - STORM Management London
Miranda Cantacuzene-Speransky, from STORM Management London, drops in to the FMD model apartment to give us some modeling advice.
