Denim Day: Wear Jeans With a Purpose.
Almost everyone owns a pair of jeans, but do you know that on 25thof April by wearing them you also make a strong social statement?
(denimdayinfo.org)
Jeans have come a very long way from their utilitarian beginnings. In the small gold rush town of San Francisco, during the 19thcentury, Levis Strauss and Jacob Davis added pockets and rivets to the hard-wearing denim pants. Patenting and launching them into the jeans we know today.
During the 1950s, jeans became the symbol of American teenage rebels, and by the 1970s they were the uniform of youth. In the 1980s, many advertisement campaigns took place. Calvin Klein hired the young Brooke Shields and world-renowned photographer, Richard Avedon for a series of dynamic stills. Throughout the following years, many denim brands appeared. Jeans started as men’s workwear, and today they can be matched with a pair of high heels and look more feminine than wearing a mini skirt.
But, who could have ever thought that a pair of jeans might trigger a whole movement of sexual violence prevention?
Everything started back in 1992 in Italy. An 18-year-old girl was picked up by her 45-year-old driving instructor for her very first lesson. Unfortunately, her excitement ended in a total nightmare. Not only did the instructor rape her but he also threatened that if she told anyone what had happened, he would kill her. When the girl returned home, she told her parents about the harrowing attack, and they pressed charges against him. The driving instructor was prosecuted and sentenced to jail for rape.
But in 1998, he appealed the sentence and made it all the way to the Italian Supreme Court. There the judges decided to release him and accused the victim of consensual sex, since wearing very tight jeans, it would be difficult for the instructor to remove them by himself. The next day, women who were in the Italian Parliament protested by wearing jeans at work, and held signs of “Jeans: An Alibi for Rape.” It was only a matter of days for the news to travel to the other side of the world, in California where the Senate and Assembly followed suit. In Los Angeles in April 1999, the Executive Director of Peace Over Violence made Denim Day an annual event.
Denim Day is observed each year in April. People of all races and genders wear jeans as a symbol to raise awareness of rape and sexual assault. It paved the way for initiatives such as #metoo and #timesup. These are important social issues that we should be well-informed about, so we can stand up against such salacious and provocative actions.
For once more, a fashion piece with such a long and humble history is helping raise awareness for a serious social problem and has become a symbol of a whole movement. So, every time you wear a pair of jeans, wear them with purpose.
LFW F/W2018: Hail the Fashion Mix!
Britishness. Color explosion. Print mix. Feminine empowerment. And Queen Elizabeth II first appearance at LFW. God save LFW!
February 16, 2018
Mulberry
“It’s all about the bag!” someone might think at the sound of the name Mulberry, the British well-known for its handbags brand. True but, the see-now, buy-now Spring 2018 collection was more like the tea party scene from Alice in Wonderland. A patisserie color palette and shoes with colorful ruffles and porcelain cups inspired rounded heels are the perfect choices for a garden party.
Matty Bovan
Matty Bovan is one of the rising stars on the London fashion scene. With his first solo show, he proved that he’s not only a good tailor since the main pieces of the collection were inspired by his late grandmother’s wardrobe, but he’s also a great showman. The tulle headdresses filled with balloons, designed by Stephen Jones, stole the show.
February 17, 2018
J.W. Anderson
“I was trying to think what is modern today and what is modern is what is next. Now is an amazing moment of clear-out and I think let’s go and find what’s new,” Jonathan Anderson said about his collection. He had to look back to his first collections and get inspiration from them. Paisleys, trench coats and khakis. It was a very different collection to what he does for LOEWE. It was a younger and more optimistic collection.
Burberry
Christopher Bailey’s last show for Burberry was a TIME to remember. This time wasn’t about Burberry, it was about a celebration of individuality. To that end, Bailey showed everything he believes in. Gay rights, optimism, youthfulness, and British streetwear were a look back to all those years he worked at Burberry. The bright LGBTQ+ rainbow colors appeared in most pieces, which became the signature of his last collection.
Gareth Pugh
This collection was all about power dressing. For once more, Pugh demolished the feminine silhouette and created a stiffer and more well-constructed one. Pagoda-shouldered tailoring, high-waisted trousers, leopard prints and a Hellraiser nail helmet made the collection serious armor. No one will ever dare to mess around with a Pugh’s woman.
February 18, 2018
Roland Mouret
“The Eyes of Laura Mars,” a 1978 movie, starring Faye Dunaway, is about power, femininity and image control. One of Roland Mouret’s favorite movies and the inspiration for his collection. He wanted to address the current theme of women’s harassment in the workplace, and he did it. Tapestry-like fabrics, wrap skirts but also laced dresses and football socks gave his collection the perfect balance between sensuality and modesty.
Mary Katrantzou
Mary Katrantzou is the “Queen of Prints,” and once again she demonstrated that she can reduce the distance between two very different design styles. Her “Interior Lives” collection was inspired by furniture and prints from William Morris and Bauhaus. A very paradoxical marriage with a very creative outcome. And yes, a Chesterfield sofa can turn into a bomber jacket!
February 19, 2018
Erdem
For his melancholy collection, Erdem Moralioglu chose as his inspiration the American vaudeville star Adele Astaire, sister of Fred Astaire. Beautiful, rich and romantic this collection could only be named. A showgirl who married an aristocrat. A collision of two different worlds. On the one side sparkling dresses and glittering capes, on the other jacquard dresses and thin black face veils. It worked since his collection told the story he had in mind.
Christopher Kane
“I’ve always been about human behavior, and I’ve always had some sort of sexual behavior in the collections,” Christopher Kane said after he presented his “The Joy of Sex “ by Alex Comfort illustrations inspired collection. Dominatrix leather dresses, knits that revealed the bra strap, and a lot of lace, “lover’s lace” as it called. Beautiful, provocative and sensual collection.
February 20, 2018
Richard Quinn
“She’s known for her sense of humor, and she’s seen a lot in her life. I don’t think a gimp mask will shock the Queen,” Richard Quinn said about the possible need of muting the designer’s signature bondage theme due to Queen Elizabeth II’s attendance at his show. Quinn’s collection was a tribute to Her Majesty’s Balmoral wardrobe. Prints, scarves beautifully paired with pleated chiffon skirts and oversized bomber jackets. At the end of the show, Quinn was awarded by Her Majesty with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, as a recognition of his talent and contribution to the fashion community.
Bravo! Condé Nast: The Media Company Implements A Code Of Conduct For Photoshoots
It has been a tumultuous time of late. With the rise of the #MeToo movement, and it’s effect on not only Hollywood but many other industries, including Fashion. Both men and women have spoken up about their experiences which are truly difficult to stomach. But at last, it seems like society is finally addressing this serious situation. Even if we think it’s, ‘a little too late,’ there are changes being made to protect all genders in the workplace going forward.
In this month’s issue of Vogue, Anna Wintour announces in her Letter from the Editor that the global media company, Condé Nast, which owns the glossy magazine, had recently created guidelines to specifically protect models from, “manipulation, coercion, and abuse while on set.” While this code of conduct was already enforced by January 2018, it was rather impressive to see it written in print, penned by the queen of fashion herself. The new Condé Nast guidelines include:
All models appearing in fashion shoots must be eighteen years of age or older. The only exceptions will be those appearing as themselves as part of a profile or news story, and they will be required to have a chaperone on set at all times.
Alcohol will no longer be allowed on Condé Nast sets. Recreational drugs will not be allowed.
Photographers will no longer be permitted to use a Condé Nast set for any work that is not commissioned or approved by the company.
Any shoot involving nudity, sheer clothing, lingerie, swimwear, simulated drug or alcohol use, or sexually suggestive poses must be approved in advance by the subject.
Although, there are already child model laws set in place that should cover some of these points. Condé Nast also made specifications for location shoots and travel.
We recommend that a model should not be alone with a photographer, makeup artist or other contributor participating in a Condé Nast shoot.
Throughout the shoot, including any related travel, photographers and videographers may not shoot anyone engaged by or through Condé Nast other than as requested by Condé Nast.
Read the full Condé Nast code of conduct here
I fully commend Condé Nast for their shift in doing business, and hopefully other companies will follow suit. Bravo!
NYFW F/W2018: A Fashion State of Mind.
Flashbacks to past decades. Travels to foreign cultures and to the outer space. Romanticism and gothic aesthetic. Playfulness. This NYFW almost had it all.
February 8, 2018
Tom Ford
Tom Ford’s women’s fashion show was a true flashback to the flamboyant, glamorous and sexy ‘80’s. Oversized outwear with metallic, black and vibrant animal print leggings turned out to be Ford’s favorites. Once again, he proved that he is an impeccable tailor in tuxedo dressing. But, the supplemental eccentricity with a sense of humor, and a #MeToo moment with two ‘Pussy Power’ sparkling lettering handbags shows us that Tom Ford wants to provoke our animal instincts as well.
Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott turned his fashion show into a kaleidoscope of neon colors. The beauty of these fluorescent and almost hypnotic colors were not only on his clothes and accessories, but also to the wigs worn by the models. “The Fifth Element” influence was obvious. “Um, just to have fun! Remember that?” Scott said before the show began. Some frivolity is always welcomed when it comes to fashion.
February 9, 2018
Tory Burch
For this season, Tory Burch found herself somewhere between a romantic and a utilitarian place. Pink carnations decorated the catwalk, and the Chamber Orchestra of New York played sonnets while the models presented Burch’s creations. Tailored blazers, dresses with asymmetric hemlines, and graphic botanical prints decorated some of the clothes. In spite of the romantic mood, utility jackets brought a masculine element to the collection, which gave some yin to it’s yang.
Bottega Veneta
It was the first presentation of the Italian House in New York, so the show should be about New York. Tomas Maier’s inspiration was derived from the bold dress code of Studio 54. Silk jewel-toned pajama sets, oversized textured coats, intricate embroidered and color blocking dresses brought a lot of Art Deco patterns in mind.
February 10, 2018
Alexander Wang
The old Conde Nast building in Times Square became the runway of Alexander Wang’s fall show. The “Matrix” aesthetic was there to stay with some nods to ‘90s Armani, Chanel, Prada and Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” video. An old hair trend came back, and what else would it be but the giant plastic hair clip.
Stop trying to fit in, when you were born to stand out ! I did it the #PLEINway
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Philipp Plein
Philipp Plein’s show was an ode to technology, space, and the rise of the robots. Irina Shayk’s unexpected escort stole the show. The model appeared from the just-landed spacecraft to join a giant robot on the ‘space station’ catwalk. Shayk with her “I love you Philipp Plein” skin-tight catsuit, took her giant partner by the hand, and under the sounds of “Fly Me to The Moon”, they walked together on the catwalk.
February 11, 2018
Victoria Beckham
It’s been a decade since Victoria Beckham was introduced to us as a fashion designer. And, her recent collection was a celebration of Beckham’s British heritage. Most of the clothes had a utility detail. Military coats, oversized sweaters, wide belts, huge felted bags and square-toe long strap flats proved that minimal is not always boring.
Prabal Gurung
The Nepal-raised designer is a proud feminist supporter. For this season, Gurung was inspired by China’s matriarchal Mosuo tribe. Vibrant colors and a lot of cultural references at Eastern and Western civilizations created a glamorous and very feminine collection.
@kaiagerber twirling down the runway in a luxe metallic parka! ✨ #AnnaSuiFall18 Regram: @wwd
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February 12, 2018
Anna Sui
“Spin! Stop! Shoulder thrust! Hip thrust! Killer gaze!” The old-school way a model conquers the catwalk. Red, orange, and purple ruled the collection’s color palette and created a powerful psychedelic, flower-power, and early ‘60s aesthetic. Also, the mixing of the fabrics and the prints echoed pages of a ‘60s fashion magazine.
Carolina Herrera
After 37 years at the fashion’s service, Carolina Herrera decided to step down and give the reins of her House to her creative consultant, Wes Gordon. The white collared shirt and black bottoms are Herrera’s signature, and at her final show, she decided to pair it with colorful taffeta gown skirts. Something to remember, but not so classic.
February 13, 2018
Coach 1941
“The Witch” could have been Stuart Vever’s inspiration since the mood of his collection and catwalk had something gothic, whimsical and “darkly romantic” as the designer said. Floral and paisley dresses in autumnal colors, long black coats, and leather-trimmed outwear were the main pieces of the 76-years-old American leather luxury brand’s autumn 2018 collection.
Calvin Klein
Raf Simons had a surprise for his attendants at Calvin Klein’s show. He filled the catwalk with popcorn! Moreover, the show’s installations had Andy Warhol’s prints on them, and it looked more like an art show than an ordinary fashion show. As for the collection, Simons presented many ‘Protection’ pieces. Workers’ outfits, rubber boots, oversized sweaters and coats, knitted hoods and a lot of popcorn!
February 14, 2018
Michael Kors
This collection was about Michael Kors’ favorite things and “for people who find joy in getting dressed,” as the designer said. ‘50s cocktail dresses, tartan outwear, animal prints accessories, and jacquards embroideries. All mixed up together. A collection of many possible outfit combinations.
Marc Jacobs
What happens when Yves Saint Laurent meets Emanuel Ungaro, and suddenly Dick Tracy enters the room? Surely, a comic book aesthetic with puffed proportions but in luxury fabrics. Jacobs created a collection inspired by all those ‘80s characters, fictional or not. The oversized silhouettes and the so ‘80s color palette made his creations look almost grotesque, but at the same time very beautiful.
