Fashion Magazines

Summer Beauty Trends 2018

By Katerina Stamatopoulou, MA Fashion Journalism Academy of Art University

@katrinst

Everything we need to know about summer beauty 2018. 

Vie photographed by Max Abadian for ELLE Canada

Every summer we love to look more beautiful, with a glowing and hydrated face and body. Golden and bronze shades, earthy tones and exotic scents are the musts of every summer. But, what about this summer’s beauty trends?

MAKE UP

URBAN DECAY Disco Queen Holographic Disco Highlighter Stick

 

 

For this summer’s makeup, you must be brave and get lost in the magic and mystery of makeup art. Colors are bright, exotic with an ultra-touch texture. The unicorn trend is still going strong, with a wide range of holographic makeup products. Loud and waterproof eyeliners promise to give a bold and bright look, even at the beach.

DIOR Diorshow On Stage Liner

THE NATURAL GLOW

 

But, let’s not forget that the nude look is always in favor during the summertime – much like florals are for a spring wardrobe. Eyeshadows and lipsticks in such hues can offer a healthy, natural-looking bronzed glow for every skin tone. While talking about that glow, many beauty brands have created key face and body products this summer. Offering an iridescent, warm, eye-catching glow with hues of bronze, gold and rose gold, when applied to the skin.

FENTY BEAUTY Fairy Bomb and Highlighter

SUMMER SCENTS

DIOR Escale à Portofino

 

 

 

 

Summertime prefers more sheer, and transparent scents. Colognes are back with a fresher spritz-weight for a lighter aroma and a longer lasting eau de parfum strength. Citrus based notes are a gentler and more elegant approach.

SUN PROTECTION

 

 

Of course, we should never forget to wear our sunscreen protection. Face and body sunscreen is always the big summer trend we should never neglect since it keeps us healthy and looking beautiful under the bright summer sun.

COOLA Sunscreen and After-Sun Care

The End Of Warhol’s Unconventional Magazine

By Katerina Stamatopoulou, MA Fashion Journalism Academy of Art University

@katrinst

An end of an era. The historic Interview magazine, founded by Andy Warhol in 1969, has closed down.

A wall of Interview magazine covers is one of the displays seen at The Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh. (Photo: Getty Images)

Interview magazine was one of the most famous arts and culture publications of downtown New York for the last 50 years. Back in its glory days, Interview was nicknamed as the “Crystal Ball of Pop”. David Bowie, Elizabeth Taylor, Madonna, Diana Ross, Michael Jackson, and Cher were just a few names who became covers of this cultural talking piece.

 

Jane Fonda, Vol.1 n.5, 1970 (Photo: edwardkurstak.com )

Diana Ross, October 1981 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com )

Madonna, June 1990 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com)

Peter Brant was the owner of the glossy magazine since 1989. The bad news of the magazine’s folding came out this week after facing a series of financial and legal issues. According to Page Six, Fabien Baron, the former editorial director, and his wife, the stylist Ludivine Poiblanc, filed a lawsuit against the magazine earlier this month claiming more than $600,000 for consulting and styling work. But the magazine’s problems didn’t end there. Karl Templer, the creative director of the magazine, was also accused of sexual misconduct. In February, Interview was kicked out of its luxurious Soho offices since the landlords were not receiving the rent checks.


This avant-garde publication has repeatedly monopolized the interest of its readers with its sophisticated covers. Even the most recent ones, such as the September 2017 issue, illustrating Kim Kardashian as Jackie Kennedy photographed by Steven Klein.

 

Lil’ Kim, November 1999 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com )

Mark Wahlberg, February 1992 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com)

Kim Kardashian, September 2017 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com)

The magazine had iconic status. Interview was featured in the CW’s television series The Carrie Diaries, a prequel to HBO’s Sex and the City, where the young Carrie Bradshaw leaves her small town in Connecticut to get a full-time job at Interview, in New York City.

“I tell everyone they can be on the cover of Interview,” once said Andy Warhol to the late editor Glenn O’Brien. Indeed, many did. But, what about now? How will the rest of us get our cover?

SAVAGE X FENTY: A Hymn to Body Positivity by #badgalriri

By Katerina Stamatopoulou, MA Fashion Journalism Academy of Art University

@katrinst

Rihanna continues her success in the fashion industry by dropping a lingerie collection for all body types.

Savage x Fenty collage by Katerina Stamatopoulou.

“Didn’t they tell you?” posted Rihanna on her Instagram account mid-April. The caption appeared underneath a zoomed-in, ultra-sexy photo of her wearing a peachy pink bra. It was a really enigmatic photo that raised a lot of speculation.

After notable collaborations with fashion and beauty brands, such as Manolo Blahnik, Dior, Puma, and MAC, she decided to create her own beauty line. FENTY beauty by Rihanna was successfully launched last fall, catering to all skin tones and types. But, now she surprises us with a new lingerie line, Savage x Fenty. It is scheduled to launch on May 11th. Rihanna has become a legitimate fashion and beauty mogul who believes that all women should love their bodies. Her brands are proof, and lots of her fans truly appreciate this.

 

savages come in all shapes and sizes!! ya ready? @savagexfenty MAY.11.2018

A post shared by badgalriri (@badgalriri) on

Audrey Ritchie, a plus size model, recently showed up in a short video on RiRi’s Instagram account, wearing Savage x Fenty lingerie to give the viewer a sneak peek of what to expect.

Like FENTY Beauty, it appears to encompass all types of women. Besides the colors and the design of the collection, what matters the most is the wide range of sizes from XS to 3XL. Savage x Fenty will be more accessible, and the women who choose to wear it will feel comfortable and confident no matter her body shape.

But, is there a woman who wouldn’t feel beautiful and sexy wearing sensual lingerie and embracing her body just as it is?

 

4 dayz, sis! #DAMN @savagexfenty

A post shared by badgalriri (@badgalriri) on

Is the Fashion Industry Changing?

By Katerina Stamatopoulou, MA Fashion Journalism Academy of Art University

@katrinst

While social conditions change, fashion is trying to keep up with them. There’s a lot to be done, but some important moves have already been made.

VOGUE British May 2018 (cover)

The world is changing rapidly, and fashion is one of the sectors that need to adapt and demonstrate determination and consistency. Furthermore, like many other industries, the fashion world is now primarily influenced by social media, particularly Instagram. Thanks to this social media application, the increasing power of the “boy or girl next door” image is taking over. Even supermodels and celebrities seek to look like everyday people.

Since mass media influences the society around us, it would be inconceivable for it not to influence fashion. It seems that the previous limitations of age, size, race, and sex don’t play such an important role in the fashion industry anymore. Perhaps it is beginning to change slowly, but steadily, and accepting the diversity within it. Along with the aid of a few progressive designers who seek the approval of the consumers.

It’s worthwhile observing the last issue of British VOGUE (May 2018). Nine models, each in their own way, presented a different aspect of diversity in fashion. Introducing a bolder future of the industry. Showing that models are human beings encountered in everyday life and not just ethereal beings who could be found only in fairy tales and on catwalks. Finally, fashion is asking for more nonwhite, plus-size, trans, and mature models.

 

Olivia Anakwe at Marc Jacobs Fall 2018 (thefashionspot.com)

Racial, gender and sexual diversity have become more and more obvious in fashion shows and magazines. According to thefashionspot.com, during the Fall 2018 Fashion Week, more models of color walked the runway than ever before, and since Teddy Quinlivan came out last September, the number of transgender model castings in New York have jumped from 12 to 31.

Ariel Murtagh at Calvin Klein Fall 2018 (thefashionspot.com)

Ashley Graham Dolce&Gabbana AltaModa 2018 (harpersbazaar.com)

In a recent interview for WWD, Tom Ford highlights the fact that models have always been the same as the sample size that designers and fashion houses worked with, and he continued by saying that, “if they don’t fit the clothes, they don’t get the job.” But, the reality is now very far from what the designer states. The last few years have seen a rapid growth of the plus-size market, and the fashion industry knows very well what to do. Ashley Graham, Katy Syme, and Stella Duval are three of the top plus-size models who many luxury brands choose for their shows. Listening to the consumers’ needs is something that should be done by all brands.

IsabellaRossellini (dailymail.co.uk)

At the age of 43, Isabella Rossellini lost her contract with the French luxury cosmetics house, Lancôme, only to regain it at the age of 63.  While on the Skavlan Talkshow, Rossellini describes the new female CEO telling her that “Women felt excluded, they felt rejected. And we really want to change the communication and include all women. And define beauty differently than looking young”. In the movie Death Becomes Her (1992), Rossellini plays the mysterious, always-stay-young Lisle Von Rhuman. Her co-stars Meryl Streep and Goldie Hawn do anything to stay forever young and beautiful, but with a price. Is this what every woman desires to be? Forever young or forever herself? But, that’s another article to write. Now, at the age of 60 something, Rossellini looks more accessible to women in her age group. Believe it or not, beauty brands have turned a new page. Through their ads, they are not only promoting beauty, but also the spirit and the confidence a woman should have in order to look and feel beautiful. By hiring women in their mid-50s and 60s as faces of their beauty campaigns, they speak directly to the hearts of women a similar age.

Fashion is an integral part of our everyday life and its reflection. Social conditions and data are changing, and fashion must keep up in order to serve our needs. But, also respond appropriately to key questions that have arisen concerning the fashion industry.

Designers In Film: The Relationship Between Fashion And Film

By Katerina Stamatopoulou

@katrinst

Since the very early days of cinema, fashion designers have helped create Hollywood style icons.

Audrey Hepburn in "Breakfast at Tiffany's" wearing Givenchy. (Filmsane)

The relationship between fashion and film has always been a close one. Many renowned fashion designers are responsible for a number of iconic key pieces worn by film stars. In turn, several film stars became muses of luxury fashion houses. These two worlds share commonalities such as glamour and the pursuit of aesthetics.

"Sabrina" Audrey Hepburn wears Givenchy. (Filmsane)

On 20th March 2018, a great French fashion designer and couturier passed away at the age of 91. Hubert de Givenchy, “Le Grand Hubert” as the French called him, was an image maker who created style icons. He dressed Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy. In 1954, the collaboration between Givenchy and Hepburn for the costumes in Billy Wilder’s film Sabrina was the beginning of a long-lasting friendship. Everyone remembers Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) standing in front of the window of Tiffany’s wearing her little black Givenchy dress and a pair of oversized sunglasses.

 

Hepburn in a 1958 fitting with designer Givenchy at his Paris atelier. (Hollywood Reporter/ Everett Collection)

Many other collaborations between these two magical worlds came up in the years to follow. In 1967, Catherine Deneuve in Luis Bunuel’s movie Belle de Jour marked the acquaintance of the actress and the thirty years old designer, Yves Saint Laurent.

Catherine Deneuve wearing YSL in "Belle de Jour". (Clothes On Film)

Back in 1982, Marc Bohan for Dior designed a dress with a big bow at the back, for the movie Tout Feu, Tout Flamme and worn by Isabelle Adjani. 

Isabelle Adjani wears Dior in "Tout feu tout flamme". (Isabelle Adjani Blog)

There have been many other eye-catching and influential costumes in cinema that generated fashion and style icons. Diane Keaton in Woody Allen’s movie Annie Hall (1977) promoted Ralph Lauren’s trend-setting masculine style.

Ralph Lauren dresses Diane Keaton for Woody Allen's "Annie Hall". (E! Online)

Richard Gere wears a signature Armani Suit in "American Gigolo". (E! Online)

 

Giorgio Armani’s suits for American Gigolo (1980) made Richard Gere the ultimate best-dressed male of the ‘80s by far.

Moreover, we should not neglect the Vivienne Westwood wedding dress that was worn by the most stylish single woman of New York, Carrie Bradshaw (aka Sarah Jessica Parker) in the Sex and the City (2008) movie.

 

 

 

 

The fascinating journey of fashion in films is special and looks like a fairytale. Designers became well-known through their creations that appeared in films and muses emerged by wearing their masterpieces in films. 

 

Sarah Jessica Parker wears Vivienne Westwood in a full 'Carrie' moment for "Sex and the City". (E! Online)

PFW F/W2018. We’ll Always Have Paris.

By Katerina Stamatopoulou

@katrinst

Fashion Weeks start and finish with Paris on the mind.

February 27, 2018


Christian Dior
First, it was the “We should all be feminists” T-shirt, now the “C’est non, non, non et non!” sweater. It’s been 50 years since the student riots in May 1968, and Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to make another social-political statement. Inspired by the tumultuous protesters of 1968 and Diane Vreeland’s “youthquake”, Chiuri wanted to target younger customers but retain Dior’s high-fashion aesthetic and legacy. A wardrobe that is revolutionary but also highly creative.

 

Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello was inspired by the Yves Saint Laurent’s “Russian Peasant” couture collection of F/W 1976, an extravagant collection in its time. But, Vaccarello gave a more Parisian direction of that elaborated and voluminous collection of Monsieur Saint Laurent. Mini shorts, large brimmed hats, fiercely impressive décolletés and the sparkling Eiffel Tower as a background accessory created a strong, contemporary fashion statement.

February 28, 2018


Maison Margiela
Décortiqué. John Galliano loves to name his collections with French adjectives. In this collection, he stripped down the garments to their essence and just kept their skeletal structure. Unconscious glamour was the collection’s name, but it looked more like ‘Rushed Dressing’ glamour. Coats worn before dresses, blazers before sweaters, holographic coats and a lot of deconstructing garments all over the catwalk. Galliano loves the pair-if-you-dare game of fabrics.

 

Dries Van Noten
Fashion is good, fashion is nice. It sounds like a mantra but that was the message Dries Van Noten was passing through his collection. We live in a very complicated and wild world, and maybe the Dark Ages are back. But, fashion should reflect the bright side of life. That was what Van Noten’s collection was all about. Utilitarian sportswear, ‘70s glam, and Paul Poiret references. Fashion is good, fashion is nice.

 

March 1, 2018


Ann Demeulemeester
The dark romanticism of the British poet, William Blake, was what Sébastien Meunier had in mind while creating this strong, aggressive but feminine collection. Clothes for modern amazons. Unfastened leather straps, painted black clothes, but there was also a hint of innocence. Jeanne d’Arc could have been Meunier’s muse for this collection.

March 2, 2018


Loewe
Five classical novels in their native language, with jackets photographed by Steven Meisel, were placed on every chair. “Classicism is always there…sometimes you change the cover and make it relevant for today,” Jonathan Anderson referred to the reading material. Loewe craftsmanship and the meticulously detailed mixing of the fabrics created an updated classic collection.

 

Balmain
Olivier Rousteing’s “Balmain Army” became fierce disco queens this season. They love wearing ripped jeans with holographic jackets, quilted leather, PVC thigh-high boots, and whatever has a shining effect on the designer’s favorite ‘80s silhouettes.  

 

March 3, 2018


Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo always loves to deconstruct the shape of the clothes and create theatrical figures inspired the history, even if she has stated that she doesn’t like to look back. For this season, CAMP was the name of her collection. She referred to Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on Camp”. “I think camp can express something deeper, and give birth to progress,” Kawakubo wrote in her show notes. The progress of thinking and feeling the world around us.

 

Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra designed a collection that was all about the women he grew up with. His mother, his friends, all the women who work and get dressed to go to the office. La Coupole restaurant at Montparnasse was the perfect choice for this real collection to take place.

 

March 4, 2018


Givenchy
If someone wants to learn about the ‘80s in East and West Germany, Clare Waight Keller’s collection for Givenchy would be the best fashion history class. Rich faux furs, leather, sharp tailoring and lace created the desired contradiction so as to present those two different sides of a country. Glamour and cruelty. 

 

Valentino
“Sometimes it’s felt as if a woman had to dress like men to be more powerful. Today is a different moment. People can be exactly how they are,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli. Flowers, the symbol of romance, were the collection’s main theme. Flowers that were a reminder of Georgia O’ Keefe paintings but much more minimal. Long dresses, coats, jackets; everything a romantic Valentino woman would wear.

 

March 5, 2018


Alexander McQueen
A McQueen woman is always powerful, and so was Sarah Burton’s show. Metamorphosis was the name of the collection, and it was an ode to powerful womanhood. Like a caterpillar transforms into a beautiful and ethereal butterfly, so does a girl become a mighty woman. Undoubtedly, throughout the collection butterfly wings had a special place.  

 

Giambattista Valli
“Humanity, much less politics,” Giambattista Valli said backstage. Valli’s collection was a collision between different cultures and politics where everyone accepts each other as they are. A journey through different countries, unique civilizations and unlike mentalities, but with bohemian attitude.  

 

March 6, 2018


Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld always narrates a personal story through each of his shows, and he did so again this time. Twelve old alleys decorated the runway, at Grand Palais, along with a German forest that is usually spotted somewhere in north Hamburg, a memory from Lagerfeld’s childhood. Everything that one needed for a stylish walk into the woods was in the collection. 

The #CHANELFallWinter 2018/19 show, presented by Karl Lagerfeld yesterday in Paris. #PFW

A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial) on

 

Miu Miu
Miu Miu is about girls who love to have fun with fashion. This time, Miuccia Prada mixed the ‘50s and ‘80s and the outcome was an eccentric and colorful collection. Different types of models, but all were referring to strong personalities. One thing in common… they all love the ‘80s powerful dress code.

 

Why Models Should Study the Fashion Industry

 

In all careers, people are hired for their expertise in their chosen fields. As a model, part of your expertise is the knowledge you have of the Fashion Industry.

TO COMMUNICATE WITH CLIENTS AND PEERS

By researching your clients and their products, you will be able to grasp the creative, or marketing, concepts of your bookings.  You will find it easier to follow direction and communicate with your client, and the creative team, on a professional level. 

If you are booked for an informal event in a department store or boutique,  you will be required to converse with the customers.  You may have to encourage the shoppers to browse your client’s collection or answer questions about the clothes you are modeling. Of course, you are not expected to know everything about the designs; but you do need to appear to have a basic interest in fashion.

To be familiar with all of the designers, stylists, artists, and photographers is very useful during ‘shop talk’ with your agent. For example; you could be told that your next test shoot is in the style of an established photographer, or that you should dress in the style of a designer brand for a casting.

IMPROVE YOUR CHANCE OF SUCCESS

Your passion and understanding for this multi-billion dollar industry will be appreciated by everyone that you work with.  Flipping through fashion magazines and blogs can teach you the difference between editorial, campaign and lifestyle work, while giving you inspiration for a multitude of poses and expressions. Additionally, it will keep you up to date with current trends in clothing, cosmetics, and style. 

Not only that, you also need to know which artists and clients could potentially move you up the rankings just by working with them. Do not take this as an excuse to refuse jobs because they are not shot by Mario Testino, or for the cover of Vogue, but as a way to recognize when a major opportunity arises.  It is all too common for models to miss their chance to raise their careers to the next level. This is because they don’t understand what career-changing job is being offered to them.

Modeling is highly competitive, and both clients and agents want to work with well-informed models; so study the business. It will surely improve your chance of success, and after all, knowledge is power!

 

RESOURCES: Aside from the countless glossy magazines and blogs, here are some great websites to help you study the fashion industry.

 www.models.com

 www.wwd.com

www.nowfashion.com

 

Bravo! Condé Nast: The Media Company Implements A Code Of Conduct For Photoshoots

It has been a tumultuous time of late. With the rise of the #MeToo movement, and it’s effect on not only Hollywood but many other industries, including Fashion.  Both men and women have spoken up about their experiences which are truly difficult to stomach.  But at last, it seems like society is finally addressing this serious situation. Even if we think it’s, ‘a little too late,’ there are changes being made to protect all genders in the workplace going forward.

In this month’s issue of Vogue, Anna Wintour announces in her Letter from the Editor  that the global media company, Condé Nast, which owns the glossy magazine, had recently created guidelines to specifically protect models from, “manipulation, coercion, and abuse while on set.”  While this code of conduct was already enforced by January 2018, it was rather impressive to see it written in print, penned by the queen of fashion herself. The new Condé Nast guidelines include:

All models appearing in fashion shoots must be eighteen years of age or older. The only exceptions will be those appearing as themselves as part of a profile or news story, and they will be required to have a chaperone on set at all times.

Alcohol will no longer be allowed on Condé Nast sets. Recreational drugs will not be allowed.

Photographers will no longer be permitted to use a Condé Nast set for any work that is not commissioned or approved by the company.

Any shoot involving nudity, sheer clothing, lingerie, swimwear, simulated drug or alcohol use, or sexually suggestive poses must be approved in advance by the subject.

Although, there are already child model laws set in place that should cover some of these points. Condé Nast also made specifications for location shoots and travel.

We recommend that a model should not be alone with a photographer, makeup artist or other contributor participating in a Condé Nast shoot.

Throughout the shoot, including any related travel, photographers and videographers may not shoot anyone engaged by or through Condé Nast other than as requested by Condé Nast.

Read the full Condé Nast code of conduct here

I fully commend Condé Nast for their shift in doing business, and hopefully other companies will follow suit. Bravo!

 

 

Why Ashley Graham’s Recent Revlon Contract Marks A Milestone In Fashion History

Ashley Graham, the inspirational curvy beauty, has recently landed a revolutionary contract with Revlon Inc. Why is this so unprecedented? Well, she happens to be the first plus-size model to land such a deal. Although cosmetic contracts are coveted to gain supermodel stardom – which Graham has already achieved, the #LiveBoldly campaign also proves that the advertising world is finally taking note of how today’s society views and accepts beauty. We are more inclusive of age, race, gender, and size than ever before.

Graham spoke to WWD about her milestone deal with Revlon;
“Historically, curvy girls are not given beauty contacts,” Graham said. “It’s kind of groundbreaking because, in my generation of models, this hasn’t happened yet. This is one of those moments where I’m over the moon, I cried a little.”


She is featured alongside models, Adwoa Aboah, Imaan Hammam and Raquel Zimmerman, which adds to the powerful message of diversity and equality.

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