Fashion Industry

STREET STYLE: Outerwear On Point During Men’s Paris Fashion Week

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Another season of men's shows has come and gone.  The Fall 2018 collections were great but, we really fell in love with what was happening on the streets. In particular, the outerwear - which did not merely serve to protect against the elements, but also raised these industry professionals' outfits to the next level.

  • Photo: Imaxtree (Esquire)

Five Healthy Snacks Perfect For Long Casting Days

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A day full of castings back to back allows little room for a sit-down leisurely lunch. Although there are plenty of healthy and nourishing meals you can pick up and eat on the go, such as a wrap or a salad bowl, you also need a few snacks at the ready to maintain your energy levels. Attempting to win over the casting directors, while running on empty, is difficult. Stave off the sugar level yo-yos with these five delicious, healthy, and energy reviving snacks. Not only do they travel well, but will not be messy or give you ‘food breath’ right before you meet a client.

1. Endurance Crackers

A delicious, energy boosting, savory snack. Using a combination of chia, sunflower, pepita and sesame seeds; they are vegan, gluten-free, sugar-free, soy-free, nut-free and oil-free – and they are super easy to make! RECIPE

2. Spicy Power Bars

Derive your energy from this heavenly mix of fruit, nuts, and spices. Added bonus: No need to bake, just leave in the refrigerator overnight. RECIPE

3. Blueberry, Almond, and Puffed Amaranth Granola Bars.

Yummy gluten-free granola bars packed with superfoods. Highlighting the grain Amaranth, extracted from the crop that was considered sacred by the Aztecs.  RECIPE

4. Spiced Honey Tahini Cookies

These gluten-free and naturally sweetened cookies are too good to be true. Perfect with a morning cup of coffee or with a cup of afternoon tea, these versatile treats can even turn into seasonal holiday bites! RECIPE

5. Cherry Pie Larabars

Made from three natural ingredients, and only takes ten minutes to make. What better way to get a delicious, anti-oxidant, and energy reviving snack than this? RECIPE

An Interview with British Stylist Sophie Stevens: On Set Life And Working With Models

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"I picked her because I knew she wouldn't let me down. I didn't want to risk using a new girl that might not have been able to cope with the situation."

British Stylist Sophie Stevens
Photos courtesy of Sophie Stevens

Sophie Stevens does not only style celebrities like Kylie Minogue and Mel C, but you will also find her forecasting trends on British radio and television. She has spent over two decades working alongside models for campaigns and editorials such as; Marks and Spencers, L'Oréal, and Cosmopolitan Magazine. We get up close and personal with the glamorous stylist to find out what it's like to be in her world that requires models to have the utmost professionalism.

FMD: Stylists are sometimes asked to take part in selecting the models, as well as style. Do you get involved in the model casting process for your projects, and if so; are there specific physical or personality traits that you look for in both male and female models?
Sophie Stevens: I am often the person choosing the model. Personality is key for me. A book can show how they look on camera, but not who they are. [When you see them in person] you might discover that they do ballet or can ski - showing that they have great balance and are possibly super bendy! Physically, great skin and great hair is always a must.

Casting also gives you the ability to check for any changes to their appearance. For example, have they had a haircut or color? It's also a perfect opportunity to have a casual chat and a giggle with the models. Just to gauge what kind of personality they have. Lastly, I always reconfirm their stats with them. Often shoe sizes etc. can be incorrect in a model's book, and this can really make or break a shoot if you don't have the correct sizes.

FMD: Do you have any advice that would help models during castings? For instance, what would be a big no-no if they were at your casting?
Sophie Stevens: Being too quiet! Not expressing their personality enough. I love it when models show their natural style in what they wear to castings. I much prefer seeing [models] as they are. Clean hair is a must, and if it's pulled up; pull it down before we meet. Finally, don't swamp yourself in layers so I can't see your figure.

FMD: Describe the best working experience you have had with a model, and why it is on the top of your list?
Sophie Stevens: There would have been a lot over the years. But, a recent one that springs to mind is when I shot the Spring/Summer trends shoot in March, on a beach in the UK and it was so cold. The model was such a trooper. She never complained, even when it started to snow! She was in denim shorts and a sheer top while [the rest of the crew] had twelve layers on. I felt so bad, but I tried to keep her laughing and jumping by shoving a hot water bottle down her back and giving her endless hot drinks. She was so professional. She even said that she'd had a really nice day! Models are amazing sometimes! It's worth mentioning that I actually had shot this girl before. I picked her because I knew she wouldn't let me down. I didn't want to risk using a new girl that might not have been able to cope with the situation.

FMD: What would be your most challenging moments on set with a model? 
Sophie Stevens: There was a girl I shot once who was very new. She was such a sweet girl but also extremely nervous. The client had booked her for a big campaign, but she literally couldn't move. She couldn't follow any of my direction, so I had to keep going on set and physically move parts of her body to the position I needed them to be in. It was so difficult and time-consuming, and we had about 30 shots to do that day. 

FMD: From a client's standpoint, what is the working environment like while being on set for an editorial or campaign shoot?
Sophie Stevens: It's fun! A little stressful at times, depending on what you're doing.- and very busy! Time seems to slip away with you, so you have to be strict about getting people into position and not let them get carried away with chatting and eating croissants. If you're in charge, you have to step up and make sure things happen and be prepared for anything.

FMD: You do a lot of multi-day shoots on location. What are your expectations of models for these projects? Are they different from when you work on single day, or studio shoots?
Sophie Stevens: Location shoot days tend to start a lot earlier, so punctuality is key. They also tend to be slightly longer days, so models need to be aware of this in case they have evening plans or flights to catch. The other important factor for location shoots would be dressing appropriately. Even though wardrobe is provided for the shoot, models should bring clothes and shoes to keep warm in between shots. 

FMD: What advice do you have for any model that walks on to your set?
Sophie Stevens: Enjoy yourself, but be present. Don't check your phone every two minutes. Change quickly, and give it your all. That way everyone is happy; the day goes smoothly and quickly. Plus, we all get to go home on time!

 

Those Jeans Tho! The Best Jeans For Men Right Now.

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Having the right pair of jeans for castings is an absolute must. Too baggy, too tight, too casual, too outdated; they distract from focusing on your features and personality.  They can also haunt your digitals that are posted on the agency's website and passed around to clients.

How to get killer digitals.

We have found fantastic denim to suit most body types, personalities - and budgets!

How To Get Killer Digitals

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  • CLOTHING Wear form fitted clothing in solid colors (preferably dark). All clothing and shoes must be clean – and don’t forget to carry a lint roller with you. Check out our Model Uniform guidelines.

The Model Uniform

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The 'model uniform' should show effortless style and confidence. Clothing is simple and modern, but most importantly, body conscious. This means form fitted; not trashy. Stick to dark solid colors, but you can add the occasional pop of white or color. Avoid distracting designs or busy prints, they won’t read well in your casting digitals. To get style inspiration, check out the latest designer collections and fashion magazines. Don’t worry - you can find fashion-forward casting outfits at affordable stores such as H&M, Macys, Zara, Forever 21,  and Urban Outfitters. Of course, you need to add your own personal flair, and styles and trends will change, but the staples will remain the same.

  • JEANS/DENIM Skinny jeans are the best way to show off your body, but not everyone can wear this style. Choose a pair that flatters your legs, hips and butt. Other styles, like “Boot Cut”. “Straight”, or “Boyfriend”, are also popular. Left: Levis, 501 Skinny Jeans Carbonized. www.levi.com Right: J Brand, Photo Ready Maria High Rise Skinny Jeans in Vanity. www.bloomingdales.com

Modeling Markets

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What Are Markets

What is a "market" or "markets"?  It is a term used to describe the countries, states, and cities where model agencies are located. They are defined by the type of clients and models that work there. Because the clientele varies in each city and country, so do the model specifications.

PRIMARY MARKETS

Primary markets are predominantly home to all the major designers and magazines. Countless models flock to these fashion Meccas; inundating agencies and creating fierce competition. Even though these markets also have catalogue and commercial clients, top agencies seek young models that are very tall, slender, and have edgy features - which are commonly booked for editorial and advertising work.

  • Paris.
  • London.
  • Milan.
  • New York.

SECONDARY MARKETS

These are the most competitive secondary markets, but there are other model agencies located in additional cities. The majority of their client base is catalogue and commercial.

With the exception of the Asian market, which has a very specific look and size requirement, agencies are open to a broader age range, size, and look for their models. Nevertheless, many of the cities in this category still have high-end editorial and advertising work that warrants agents to represent a few 'image' or top models.

U.S.A/ SOUTH AMERICA/ CANADA
  • Dallas.
  • Los Angeles.
  • Miami.
  • San Francisco.
  • Seattle.
  • Sao Paulo.
  • Toronto.
  • Vancouver.
EUROPE
  • Amsterdam.
  • Athens.
  • Barcelona.
  • Copenhagen.
  • Hamburg.
  • Madrid.
  • Munich.
  • Prague.
ASIA
  • Bangkok.
  • Osaka.
  • Seoul.
  • Tokyo.
AUSTRALASIA
  • Auckland.
  • Melbourne.
  • Sydney.
SOUTH AFRICA
  • Cape Town.

What Is Editorial Modeling

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Love Magazine (issue 17.5) model: Slick Woods, photography: Alasdair McLellan, fashion editing: Katie Grand.

Vogue Australia (October 2017) model: Fei Fei Sun, photography: Robbie Fimmano, styling: Katie Mossman.

Elle Men Hong Kong (2017) model: Rafal Kontny, photography: Lukasz Wolejko-Wolejszo, styling: Fabiana Vardaro.

GQ Magazine (2017) model: Geron McKinley, photography: Sebastian Mader.

Editorials are four to ten-page visual stories that showcase fashion, beauty, and lifestyle trends in magazines. Although the models, clothes, and accessories are usually the main focus, creative hairstyles, makeup, and props can also be the feature and add to the theme of the fashion story.

The magazine genre and the theme of the editorial greatly affect the model casting. Fashion magazines, for example, V Man or Harper’s Bazaar, book models that have an edgy or high fashion look. Some lifestyle magazines, like Self and Men’s Health, tend to use models that are more commercial and possibly athletic.

Shape Magazine (April 2013) model: Daria Pilnitskaya, photography: Jamie Nelson, styling: Katie Goldsmith.

Mens Health Romania (September 2017) model: Jason Morgan, photography: McKinght Peterson.

Along with physique and features, models require patience. There is a lot of makeup and hair preparation, light set up, and prop placement that is involved. Models should also know how to move and deliver different expressions. Lastly, they must be open-minded; editorials are constantly evolving with new creative concepts.

Editorial poses consist of angular lines and are either static or in movement; including jumping and running. The model’s expression is typically pensive, or a strong reaction to something. However, for a lifestyle magazine, models are more likely to smile while showing off the clothes, product, or even fitness exercise. Nevertheless, models must move with fluidity.

 

Editorial modeling is not as easy as it looks. Holding your body in uncomfortable positions for hours under hot lights, or wearing inappropriate footwear while traversing mountains is no picnic. Additionally, because editorials promote trends for the upcoming season, a common challenge is modeling summer clothes during winter, and vice versa. Nevertheless, you will most likely end up with beautiful photos that will give your portfolio a boost.

The Edit (October 2017) model: Grace Elizabeth, photography: Sebastian Kim, styling: Katie Mossman.

Modern Luxury (2017) model: Mathew Rojas, photography: Mark Veltman, stylist: Paul Frederick.

Vogue China (May 2011) model: Karlie Kloss, photography: Patrick Demarchelier, styling: Nicoletta Santoro

Vogue Portugal (October 2017) model: Maria Borges, photography: Branislav Simoncik.

Finding A Legitimate Model Agency

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Are you looking for a model agency to submit to? Be aware that if you are uninformed in the modeling business, you are more likely to be taken advantage of. What may appear to be a legitimate model agency, can turn out to be nothing but a fraudulent scam.

However, FMD will show you what to look out for, and how you can determine whether an agency is legit.

HOW TO SPOT A SCAM

 

There are two major clues to scams or phony model agencies.

  • The agent asks for money upfront or an “enrollment fee”. A true model agency only makes money when booking their models on jobs, not by signing them.
  • You are required to pay for modeling classes or a portfolio in advance to be considered for representation.

 

HERE ARE THE KEY FACTORS TO LOOK FOR WHEN RESEARCHING MODEL AGENCIES

 

  • Check if the business is run out of an office, rather than a residence or a PO Box and that it is located at the advertised address.
  • Should the agency be open for a short period of time, get background information on the person who started the company. Were they an agent? Do other agencies work with them?
  • Be cautious of anyone with a Yahoo, AOL, Gmail, or any other non-business email address.

 

HOW DO YOU FIND OUT THIS INFORMATION?

 

WEBSITES

Agency Websites: These days most agencies have websites that provide enough information to prove their credibility. How long they have been in business, their clientele list, and submission policies are just a few examples. Additionally, their models’ portfolios will give you an idea of the type of men and women that they look for. You will also see the quality of clients and photographers they work with.

Blogs and Social Media: Checking out the agencies’ blogs and other social media pages are very quick and effective ways to learn more about them and their image.

The Better Business Bureau: The reputation of a company is perhaps the most telltale sign of its legitimacy. The Better Business Bureau or the local Chamber of Commerce (for international research) is where any reported complaints against the agencies, such as fraud or mismanagement, can be found.

GO TO THE SOURCE

Approach a Department Store: Contact your nearest department stores to find out if they use models for events. If they do, ask which agencies they hire from.

Contact Model Agencies: Although most agents will be too busy to answer a slew of questions, the receptionist or office manager should be able to help you.

 

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