Editorial: Viva L’Italia

Posted on October 29, 2018October 29, 2018 by AJR250

Summer Beauty Trends 2018

Posted on August 2, 2018August 2, 2018 by AJR250

EDITORIAL: The New Faces Of L.A.

Posted on June 6, 2018June 7, 2018 by AJR250

The End Of Warhol’s Unconventional Magazine

Posted on May 24, 2018May 24, 2018 by Katerina Stamatopoulou

Peter Brant was the owner of the glossy magazine since 1989. The bad news of the magazine’s folding came out this week after facing a series of financial and legal issues. According to Page Six, Fabien Baron, the former editorial director, and his wife, the stylist Ludivine Poiblanc, filed a lawsuit against the magazine earlier this month claiming more than $600,000 for consulting and styling work. But the magazine’s problems didn’t end there. Karl Templer, the creative director of the magazine, was also accused of sexual misconduct. In February, Interview was kicked out of its luxurious Soho offices since the landlords were not receiving the rent checks.

This avant-garde publication has repeatedly monopolized the interest of its readers with its sophisticated covers. Even the most recent ones, such as the September 2017 issue, illustrating Kim Kardashian as Jackie Kennedy photographed by Steven Klein.

Happy Cinco De Mayo: Guilt Free Burrito Recipes!

Posted on May 5, 2018May 11, 2018 by AJR250

Why Dance Helps Modeling

Posted on April 29, 2018April 29, 2018 by AJR250

Clients expect models to be able to move well in front of the camera. They hire models because they not only want to create their conceptualized images to a T, but they also want to capture them in the least amount of time, potentially reducing costs of production. Clients do not want further delays, motivating and directing their models into poses. This is why it is helpful for models to have a dance background.

Models should move with fluidity, poise, and coordination. Whether it is an edgy editorial or a smiley e-commerce shoot, it’s important to adjust your poses and expressions with ease. Even the way you hold your hands or position your feet can make or break a shot. Get used to pointing your toes, and connecting your ankles while keeping your feet out or straight ahead. Turning your feet inwards will give you a pigeon toe look. Unless you are asked to create awkward angles, it can project the wrong body language. Hands should look graceful, by keeping the fingers relaxed and close together. If they are too wide apart or stiff, it can make the pose look clumsy. However, some shoots may require the hands to create sharp lines, particularly for editorials.

Although we suggest adding dance to your extra-curricular activities to help with your posing, there are bookings that require models to physically dance during the shoot. Karlie Kloss and Liu Wen were photographed for Vogue while showing their dance skills, and Joan Smalls was paired up with professional dancer and choreographer, Lil Buck for the Wall Street Journal. Additionally, more and more athletic wear brands cater to dancers; such as Nike and Reebok. These clients often request models who are, at the very least, amateur or semi-professional dancers for their campaigns.

But, it’s not only your print jobs that will benefit from dance. Runway too! Walking in high heels, making turns on the catwalk, and having the correct posture is all about movement and balance – which are the basics of dance. For instance, to do a full or half-turn without stumbling; you need to find a focal point in the direction of the audience. Staring at this point throughout the turn will force your head to whip around. This is called ‘spotting’, a technique used by dancers to maintain balance.

Applying dance to your modeling will broaden your job opportunities, keep you in shape, and help with your posture, poses, and stamina.

Interview with STORM’S Noelle Doukas And Christopher Yianoullou

Posted on March 20, 2018April 4, 2018 by AJR250

FMD: What are the key attributes that STORM looks for when scouting for models?
Chris: We look for standards like height and beautiful skin and great bone structure, but our industry has started to celebrate the more unique aspects of the girl – who she is and what she’s about; her style, her personality. There is much more to it, and you can’t just scout by looking at someone, you really need to talk to that person and get a feel for who they are. Clients like ASOS and Urban Outfitters want to do more profile pieces, and they want real people, so it makes it more fun for us because [models] don’t have to be strictly 5’10” minimum anymore. It’s more flexible, and more fun; so yeah it’s about character more than anything really.

FMD: Whenever you bring international models into London; what is your process, and does STORM have specific facilities to accommodate them?
Noelle: It all depends on how long you are bringing girls in for, and also what you are bringing them in for. There are some girls we bring in for periods of time, say two to three months; in which case you set them up in a house. We do have model apartments, but we also have a wide range of people who are like second moms who look after them, because it is quite daunting if they have never been into the territory before. Obviously, if it’s a girl who has never been to the UK, we take a bit of time explaining how to get around, because the girls have go-sees or castings every day. They probably have four to five castings a day. So, they kind of hit the ground running really. Sometimes, we try to set them up with other girls so they get a feel for what they are doing. We do have an assistant on board that goes through everything with them, and gives them a UK phone and tries to introduce them to transport etc. London’s enormous isn’t it, so expecting these girls to go to appointment to appointment is really quite daunting.

FMD: Are the castings based in London or all over the UK?
Noelle: They are completely sporadic. With castings, you can’t dictate what time it is, what area it is, so a girl could be coming from E1 and then having to go to SE11 (London postcodes with a distance of five miles) and she’s got a small amount of time to do it. If you get a bigger international girl, say she’s here for three days, it’s easier to put them in a car. They are doing a ton of appointments a day, back to back. I mean, since Uber’s come around it’s changed things quite a bit. It’s not that expensive to Uber from one place to another.
FMD: Uber’s made a model’s life a lot easier.
Noelle: It makes it probably a lot easier. I do feel for them though. I have done go-sees and castings with one girl once, and I thought, “I do feel sorry for them.”
Chris: It’s not as glamorous as you think.

FMD: Describe the London Market and Clientele.
Noelle: Well, I think first of all we’ve got the best editorial, I would say in the world, because we have the high-end publications like Vogue, Harpers, and Elle, and we also have the really kind of cool magazines like Dazed, and Wonderland. Now, there are a lot of online publications, there’s a pop-up magazine every day.
Chris: It’s a super creative city, with all the great designers and fashion schools. The students’ work is incredible here.
Noelle: It’s a good market to develop a girl because, as I’ve said, when we’ve got such a wide range of editorials; it’s good to develop their books. But, I think another great thing about London is that we have the advertising, the catalogues, and the E-com, and so a girl is pretty much guaranteed to make a nice amount of money. I mean the British pound is pretty shocking at the moment, but prior to that, it was great! No, it’s a great city! Our Fashion week is better than it ever has been before. I think a lot more girls are coming to London to do the shows, it’s a lot more relevant. So, I would say London’s definitely kind of an all-rounder. You know the only other thing is there is not as much competition, because most girls base themselves in New York, at which point you’re competing with x amount of girls, as opposed to a less amount of cool, international new faces.

FMD: How easy is it for new models to acclimate to the London Market?
Chris: I think for the younger girls it’s actually quite nice. We’re an English speaking country; the Tube (Underground) is pretty self-explanatory, and the English culture is very polite, and we like to help!
Noelle: They do get chaperoned though, if they are too young. We’d never let a girl under eighteen go out on her own, ever.
Chris: Yeah, and that also helps when they get settled in, there’s an English person there to teach them the ropes, the underground etc., how it works. We’ve never had any problems.

FMD: You mentioned that STORM has model apartments; are there strict rules enforced for the people staying in them?
Noelle: I wish we did, it’s a nightmare! It’s funny, model apartments are generally there for brand new girls, but sometimes girls end up living there for a couple of years. Some girls are actually messier maybe than boys, from what the cleaners tell us. (laugh)
Chris: Yeah, it’s bad! (laugh)
Noelle: It’s not good! It’s not good! I can’t understand it because I think if you can do this to someone else’s house, would you actually do this in your own house? I don’t think they would. Occasionally, we have to get pest control, painters and decorators coming in, or there are doors being broken off hinges or whatever it is. They’re young kids aren’t they; they’re not at home with their parents. I do get girls specifically saying, “I don’t want to stay in a model apartment”. We have a group of really lovely people who rent out rooms, and you know, I think they like it, the international girls who’ve not been here before, they feel kind of nurtured. It’s actually nice to be in a family environment.

FMD: What would you say are the most important qualities models should have?
Noelle: A voice and a personality for sure. I’ve seen the most beautiful girls in the world that have no personality, and I’m not meaning that in a derogative way, I just mean that, I think it’s like dating actually; you can think ‘oh, you’re fairly attractive’, but it’s the connection you have that actually develops how they come across, how you relate to that person – and actually personalities can make or break someone. You meet someone who’s really arrogant and full of themselves, and all that beauty just completely diminishes, whereas someone with a great personality can win you over in a different way, and you see a totally different side of them.
For me, if I were a casting director, it would be that. And it’s interesting to see how [it affects modeling], say you bring in a girl you don’t know particularly well, and she gets 30 options in a month and not one of them confirms, you start to think ‘there’s something not quite right there’, or you can get a girl that you weren’t entirely sure about but she has an amazing personality and her chart is full of red confirmations.
Chris: It’s true though!

FMD: Is there a common mistake that stands out as something models repeat over and over again?
Noelle: I would probably say approaching things with too much negativity.
Chris: Yeah, I was about to say that – or over thinking.
Noelle: When they start to analyze too much, girls can get very down on themselves, and I think that can come across to people. You can get yourself into a hole and it’s difficult to climb back out of it.
But I think it’s like that for everyone, for everything in life. I always write my Gratitudes down every day, things that I’m grateful for. If you try and make yourself feel more positive, then positivity comes back to you. But, I think when you go into anything with a negative view; it’s not going to turn itself around. You’ve got to be strong, and I think you’ve got to have a strong backbone. But saying this, I personally wouldn’t want to be judged on my looks every day of my life. It takes a certain quality of person.
Chris: Yeah, everyone thinks it’s an easy job, but…
Noelle: It’s one of the hardest. The worst thing a girl could ever do is to have a negative view on the industry, or herself, or whatever it is, you know, unless they’re enjoying it, loving it, I try to discourage them doing it at all. Because I think they’re so young, surely in that age group you’re supposed to be having the time of your life, not scrutinizing every part of yourself.

Building Your Portfolio

Posted on March 6, 2018February 26, 2019 by AJR250

It is a general rule that the more magazine tear sheets and campaigns you have in your portfolio, the more it motivates clients to book you. This is because they demonstrate your hirability and experience. But, what if you are a new face and have never done a photo shoot, or you are not booking jobs that provide tear sheets? Not to worry, this is what testing is for.

Test shoots are styled and shot as if they were for magazines, but more focused on the model rather than the clothes. They are a way to build up your portfolio, as well as your professional experience. Not only do new faces rely on testing; established models also utilize it to keep momentum while they wait for published editorials or advertising jobs, and to keep their portfolios updated.

Testing comes in two forms:

PAID TESTS
TFP – Trade for prints.

PAID TESTS

Many models have to hire photographers in order to get their portfolios started. Your agent will either set it up or put you in contact with him or her. It is likely that the photographer is a client, who shoots advertising, magazines, or catalogs. Testing is a great way for working photographers to become familiar with new models.

Paid tests can cost anywhere from $200 to $850, depending on the photographer, location and what kind of team is involved. After the shoot, your agency will receive a CD, zip file or web link containing all the photos. Keep in mind that there is the possibility of having to do more than one paid test, especially is you are a new face.

TRADE FOR PRINTS

There is a constant flow of photographers trying to get established within the fashion industry. One of the ways they do this is by reaching out to model agencies to offer free test shoots. In return, they can use the images for promotional purposes in their portfolios. The model (or models) will also be given copies for their books. These are known as “trade shoots”, or trade-for-print (TFP) shoots.

However, these trade shoots may not always work out. This can be due to poor photography, gaudy styling or an unsuitable theme. It is part of the risk and nature of working with new artists. But, whether the images make it into your book or not, the experience will help you grow as a model.

*If an artist approaches you directly to organize a shoot, notify your agency for approval. Your agent will know if the shoot will be worth your while (and safe!)

THE PORTFOLIO

With a fastidious eye your agent specifically arranges your portfolio or "book" so that you are presented in the best possible way. They select the images from your test shoots , as well as any published editorials or campaigns. Some of the shots chosen may not be your favorite but, in the agent’s professional opinion, the photos enhance your features, body shape or personality. Special care is taken to include a number of poses and looks that show diversity, and appeal to as many clients as possible. Yet, not all clients are going to love all your photos. Should one client say they don’t like a picture, it does not mean that it won’t interest another.

As a new face, it is normal to start out with four or five prints in your book. It is far more effective to have a few great pictures than a lot of ordinary ones. Keep in mind that it takes a while for a portfolio to develop into one worthy of a well-seasoned model, so be patient.

Bravo! Condé Nast: The Media Company Implements A Code Of Conduct For Photoshoots

Posted on February 21, 2018February 22, 2018 by AJR250

It has been a tumultuous time of late. With the rise of the #MeToo movement, and it’s effect on not only Hollywood but many other industries, including Fashion. Both men and women have spoken up about their experiences which are truly difficult to stomach. But at last, it seems like society is finally addressing this serious situation. Even if we think it’s, ‘a little too late,’ there are changes being made to protect all genders in the workplace going forward.

In this month’s issue of Vogue, Anna Wintour announces in her Letter from the Editor that the global media company, Condé Nast, which owns the glossy magazine, had recently created guidelines to specifically protect models from, “manipulation, coercion, and abuse while on set.” While this code of conduct was already enforced by January 2018, it was rather impressive to see it written in print, penned by the queen of fashion herself. The new Condé Nast guidelines include:

All models appearing in fashion shoots must be eighteen years of age or older. The only exceptions will be those appearing as themselves as part of a profile or news story, and they will be required to have a chaperone on set at all times.

Alcohol will no longer be allowed on Condé Nast sets. Recreational drugs will not be allowed.

Photographers will no longer be permitted to use a Condé Nast set for any work that is not commissioned or approved by the company.

Any shoot involving nudity, sheer clothing, lingerie, swimwear, simulated drug or alcohol use, or sexually suggestive poses must be approved in advance by the subject.

Although, there are already child model laws set in place that should cover some of these points. Condé Nast also made specifications for location shoots and travel.

We recommend that a model should not be alone with a photographer, makeup artist or other contributor participating in a Condé Nast shoot.

Throughout the shoot, including any related travel, photographers and videographers may not shoot anyone engaged by or through Condé Nast other than as requested by Condé Nast.

Read the full Condé Nast code of conduct here

I fully commend Condé Nast for their shift in doing business, and hopefully other companies will follow suit. Bravo!

By Katerina Stamatopoulou, MA Fashion Journalism Academy of Art University

Vie photographed by Max Abadian for ELLE Canada

MAKE UP

URBAN DECAY Disco Queen Holographic Disco Highlighter Stick

DIOR Diorshow On Stage Liner

THE NATURAL GLOW

FENTY BEAUTY Fairy Bomb and Highlighter

SUMMER SCENTS

DIOR Escale à Portofino

SUN PROTECTION

COOLA Sunscreen and After-Sun Care

By Katerina Stamatopoulou, MA Fashion Journalism Academy of Art University

A wall of Interview magazine covers is one of the displays seen at The Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh. (Photo: Getty Images)

Jane Fonda, Vol.1 n.5, 1970 (Photo: edwardkurstak.com )

Diana Ross, October 1981 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com )

Madonna, June 1990 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com)

Lil’ Kim, November 1999 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com )

Mark Wahlberg, February 1992 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com)

Kim Kardashian, September 2017 (Photo: Interviewmagazine.com)

Cooking Light Photo: Johnny Autry

Denisa Dvorakova by Nicole Bentley for Marie Claire Australia

Kate Moss by Mario Testino for French Vogue

Jou Bellini by Philip Riches for Attitude

Valeska @valeska_miller by Oliver Endahl @balletzaida Music by Joshua Piper @heavypiano

Karlie Kloss by Arthur Elgort for Vogue Australia

Liu Wen by Daniel Jackson for Vogue China

Joan Smalls and Lil Buck for the Wall Street Journal by Daniel Jackson

PAID TESTS

TRADE FOR PRINTS

THE PORTFOLIO

By Amber Ritchie