Is the Fashion Industry Changing?
While social conditions change, fashion is trying to keep up with them. There’s a lot to be done, but some important moves have already been made.
VOGUE British May 2018 (cover)
The world is changing rapidly, and fashion is one of the sectors that need to adapt and demonstrate determination and consistency. Furthermore, like many other industries, the fashion world is now primarily influenced by social media, particularly Instagram. Thanks to this social media application, the increasing power of the “boy or girl next door” image is taking over. Even supermodels and celebrities seek to look like everyday people.
Since mass media influences the society around us, it would be inconceivable for it not to influence fashion. It seems that the previous limitations of age, size, race, and sex don’t play such an important role in the fashion industry anymore. Perhaps it is beginning to change slowly, but steadily, and accepting the diversity within it. Along with the aid of a few progressive designers who seek the approval of the consumers.
It’s worthwhile observing the last issue of British VOGUE (May 2018). Nine models, each in their own way, presented a different aspect of diversity in fashion. Introducing a bolder future of the industry. Showing that models are human beings encountered in everyday life and not just ethereal beings who could be found only in fairy tales and on catwalks. Finally, fashion is asking for more nonwhite, plus-size, trans, and mature models.
Olivia Anakwe at Marc Jacobs Fall 2018 (thefashionspot.com)
Racial, gender and sexual diversity have become more and more obvious in fashion shows and magazines. According to thefashionspot.com, during the Fall 2018 Fashion Week, more models of color walked the runway than ever before, and since Teddy Quinlivan came out last September, the number of transgender model castings in New York have jumped from 12 to 31.
Ariel Murtagh at Calvin Klein Fall 2018 (thefashionspot.com)
Ashley Graham Dolce&Gabbana AltaModa 2018 (harpersbazaar.com)
In a recent interview for WWD, Tom Ford highlights the fact that models have always been the same as the sample size that designers and fashion houses worked with, and he continued by saying that, “if they don’t fit the clothes, they don’t get the job.” But, the reality is now very far from what the designer states. The last few years have seen a rapid growth of the plus-size market, and the fashion industry knows very well what to do. Ashley Graham, Katy Syme, and Stella Duval are three of the top plus-size models who many luxury brands choose for their shows. Listening to the consumers’ needs is something that should be done by all brands.
IsabellaRossellini (dailymail.co.uk)
At the age of 43, Isabella Rossellini lost her contract with the French luxury cosmetics house, Lancôme, only to regain it at the age of 63. While on the Skavlan Talkshow, Rossellini describes the new female CEO telling her that “Women felt excluded, they felt rejected. And we really want to change the communication and include all women. And define beauty differently than looking young”. In the movie Death Becomes Her (1992), Rossellini plays the mysterious, always-stay-young Lisle Von Rhuman. Her co-stars Meryl Streep and Goldie Hawn do anything to stay forever young and beautiful, but with a price. Is this what every woman desires to be? Forever young or forever herself? But, that’s another article to write. Now, at the age of 60 something, Rossellini looks more accessible to women in her age group. Believe it or not, beauty brands have turned a new page. Through their ads, they are not only promoting beauty, but also the spirit and the confidence a woman should have in order to look and feel beautiful. By hiring women in their mid-50s and 60s as faces of their beauty campaigns, they speak directly to the hearts of women a similar age.
Fashion is an integral part of our everyday life and its reflection. Social conditions and data are changing, and fashion must keep up in order to serve our needs. But, also respond appropriately to key questions that have arisen concerning the fashion industry.
MFW F/W2018: La Divina Moda.
Hybrids. Clans. Cyborgs. Religion. Everything looked surreal in this still-real-world we live in.
February 21, 2018
Gucci
The fashion week in Milan initiated quite dynamically, shockingly dynamic someone would say. The invitation to Gucci had already prompted that the guests wouldn’t be watching an ordinary runway show. A timer in a plastic bag which counted in reverse until the beginning of the show, that was taking place in a surgery room. Alessandro Michele titled the Gucci show “Cyborg” after Donna Haraway’s 1984 “A Cyborg Manifesto” essay. Two models were carrying their own heads as accessories, another holding a dragon, and a third eye was staring from a model’s forehead. Living in a world full of uncertainty, where many questions have been risen and found no answers, Michele created a hybrid that surpasses dualisms and dichotomies. Velvet dresses, tweed jackets, distressed jeans, and furs covered with tulle. A futuristic collection with a grim touch.
Moschino
It’s very obvious that Jackie Kennedy and Marilyn Monroe were the inspiration for Jeremy Scott’s fall collection for Moschino. Bobbed hair and pillbox hats were reminiscent of the First Lady, but with some Pop Art and alien characteristics. However, it was the bombshell who came out wearing evening looks because something’s got to give.
February 22, 2018
Max Mara
Max Mara is synonymous with powerful and beautiful outwear since its foundation day, back in 1951. With this collection, Max Mara wanted to gain the appreciation of a younger generation. Power dressing with some ’80s punk chic details created a very strong theme. Large coats, leather skirts teamed with slim pants, and T-shirts with Francoise Berthoud illustrations are waiting to be worn by powerful Millennial queens.
Fendi
“Romantic femininity for a powerful woman,” were Silvia Venturini Fendi’s words about the last collection. This time Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi focused on men’s fabrics and detailed tailoring. Double-breasted glossy coats in Prince of Wales checks, handkerchief linen transformed into coat collars and embroidered dresses, Texan boots, and the new version of Peekaboo bag, the Peekaboo X-Lite brought the perfect balance between strong lines and the delicacy of the ‘40s.
Prada
Miuccia Prada decided to match two opposing types of women in order to create a superwoman, who isn’t afraid to fight if needed while wearing something extremely feminine. On the one side, bustier, tulle, and sequins and on the other protective tight knit dresses, and jackets in neon colors were worn as armor. Also, the “Hot Rods” shoes are back, but with an upgrade and perfectly matched with the Fondazione Prada’s view of the post-industrial Milan.
February 23, 2018
Etro
Etro becomes 50 years old and the creative director, Veronica Etro wanted to celebrate it with the most Etro-ish way. Prints and glamorous bohemian aesthetics were the main ingredients for the “Folk Deco” collection. Fringes, suede boots, printed dresses and shearling jackets proved that stylish can be also cozy.
Versace
For the Italians, “La Famiglia” is the most important, and sacred, thing. The family is something that proves where you belong, it’s a form of identity. Maybe that was what Donatella Versace had in mind when she named the last collection “The Clans of Versace.” Tartans, African graphism, total monochrome mixed with a multitude of styles and decades. Many designs were from her brother Gianni, but Donatella produced a collection that belongs in the “Famiglia Versace”.
GUCCI
MOSCHINO
MAX MARA
FENDI
PRADA
ETRO
VERSACE
GIORGIO ARMANI
MISSONI
JIL SANDER
MARNI
DOLCE & GABBANA
TOMMY HILFIGER
February 24, 2018
Giorgio Armani
“Inspired by many cultures as an ode to co-existence as opposed to exclusion,” were Giorgio Armani’s notes about the collection. Clothes in pale colors were succeeded by jackets and then by embellished gowns. The many fabrics created a collection that can travel around the world through textures and design.
Missoni
Missoni is well-known for its zigzagging, multicolored knits. For this season, Angela Missoni created another story mixing Caribbean colors and references to Jamaican colorful layering. Icons such as Lisa Bonet, Basquiat and Hendrix were an inspiration for this ‘70s and early ‘80s super colorful collection.
Jil Sander
A collection inspired by the sci-fi movie “2001: A Space Odyssey”, a nostalgia for what the future holds for humans. Outfits with references to astronaut uniforms that exhaled purity. “We’re surrounded by technology and AI and all these things that are always in the news and in the consciousness. We thought, ‘Why can’t the future be beautiful, soft and human also?’” said Luke Meier backstage.
February 25, 2018
Marni
“Techno-primitivism” is what Francesco Risso named his Fall 2018 Marni show – a contradiction in terms. Marni is a synonym to minimalism, yet this collection was dedicated to the use of contrasting colors, fabrics and prints. It was referring to that type of women who, at the same time, can combine fragility and powerfulness in a creative way. Well-constructed coats and dresses mixing two opposite fabrics produced a weird but very beautiful outcome.
Dolce & Gabbana
A Catholic ceremony with a touch of technology; that was Dolce&Gabbana. When the golden gates opened, eight drones appeared and each of them carried a D&G handbag. “Fashion Devotion” was the title of the collection, and not by chance. Every outfit was inspired by the Catholic church; the colors, the fabrics, the accessories. Even slogan printed t-shirts were referring to Church in some way. A collection made for sin.
Tommy Hilfiger
All started in New York, went to London, then Beijing and now Milan, the fashion capital in Tommy Hilfiger’s mind. It was something like a World Tour or pit stop of racing cars. Hilfiger’s spring #TommyNow see-now-buy-now collection was not only a celebration of his love for fast cars but also a celebration of his partnership with Mercedes-AMG Petronas, through which he will be its official apparel partner. Racing tops and jackets with Hilfiger’s logo, stripes, denim and sheer dresses. Everything looked so authentic. And, Gigi Hadid was there to add more cuteness and youthfulness at this “Fast and Furious” show.
