Client

How To Have A Better Working Relationship With Your Agent

Posted on by AJR250
  • FMD Life Business Relationship with your agent
    HOW TO HAVE A BETTER WORKING RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR AGENT Behind every successful model there is a talented agent. The model-agent relationship involves a tremendous amount of teamwork and trust. Without the support and guidance from an agent, your career can only go so far. However, without your professionalism and trust, the agent is limited to what he or she can do for you. In the words of Jerry Maguire, your agent is saying, “Help me help you!”

 

Interview with STORM’S Noelle Doukas And Christopher Yianoullou

Posted on by AJR250

 

Noelle and Christopher have over twenty-five years experience between them, spent working at the forefront of the modeling industry. Both agents exude bright dynamic personalities with an obvious passion for the talent they represent.

We chat about STORM, which has been one of the most influential model agencies since Sarah Doukas, Noelle’s mother, opened its doors in 1987, and move onto the innovations within the market and the changes of their model requirements.

FMD: What are the key attributes that STORM looks for when scouting for models?
Chris: We look for standards like height and beautiful skin and great bone structure, but our industry has started to celebrate the more unique aspects of the girl – who she is and what she’s about; her style, her personality. There is much more to it, and you can’t just scout by looking at someone, you really need to talk to that person and get a feel for who they are. Clients like ASOS and Urban Outfitters want to do more profile pieces, and they want real people, so it makes it more fun for us because [models] don’t have to be strictly 5’10” minimum anymore. It’s more flexible, and more fun; so yeah it’s about character more than anything really. 


FMD: Whenever you bring international models into London; what is your process, and does STORM have specific facilities to accommodate them?
Noelle: It all depends on how long you are bringing girls in for, and also what you are bringing them in for. There are some girls we bring in for periods of time, say two to three months; in which case you set them up in a house. We do have model apartments, but we also have a wide range of people who are like second moms who look after them, because it is quite daunting if they have never been into the territory before. Obviously, if it’s a girl who has never been to the UK, we take a bit of time explaining how to get around, because the girls have go-sees or castings every day. They probably have four to five castings a day. So, they kind of hit the ground running really. Sometimes, we try to set them up with other girls so they get a feel for what they are doing. We do have an assistant on board that goes through everything with them, and gives them a UK phone and tries to introduce them to transport etc. London’s enormous isn’t it, so expecting these girls to go to appointment to appointment is really quite daunting.


FMD: Are the castings based in London or all over the UK?
Noelle: They are completely sporadic. With castings, you can’t dictate what time it is, what area it is, so a girl could be coming from E1 and then having to go to SE11 (London postcodes with a distance of five miles) and she’s got a small amount of time to do it. If you get a bigger international girl, say she’s here for three days, it’s easier to put them in a car. They are doing a ton of appointments a day, back to back. I mean, since Uber’s come around it’s changed things quite a bit. It’s not that expensive to Uber from one place to another.
FMD: Uber’s made a model’s life a lot easier.
Noelle: It makes it probably a lot easier. I do feel for them though. I have done go-sees and castings with one girl once, and I thought, “I do feel sorry for them.”
Chris: It’s not as glamorous as you think.


FMD: Describe the London Market and Clientele.
Noelle: Well, I think first of all we’ve got the best editorial, I would say in the world, because we have the high-end publications like Vogue, Harpers, and Elle, and we also have the really kind of cool magazines like Dazed, and Wonderland. Now, there are a lot of online publications, there’s a pop-up magazine every day.
Chris: It’s a super creative city, with all the great designers and fashion schools. The students’ work is incredible here.
Noelle: It’s a good market to develop a girl because, as I’ve said, when we’ve got such a wide range of editorials; it’s good to develop their books. But, I think another great thing about London is that we have the advertising, the catalogues, and the E-com, and so a girl is pretty much guaranteed to make a nice amount of money. I mean the British pound is pretty shocking at the moment, but prior to that, it was great! No, it’s a great city! Our Fashion week is better than it ever has been before. I think a lot more girls are coming to London to do the shows, it’s a lot more relevant. So, I would say London’s definitely kind of an all-rounder. You know the only other thing is there is not as much competition, because most girls base themselves in New York, at which point you’re competing with x amount of girls, as opposed to a less amount of cool, international new faces.

Strolling into DAY 2 like ☄️ #LinYap #stormlfwaw18

A post shared by STORM (@stormmodels) on

FMD: How easy is it for new models to acclimate to the London Market?
Chris: I think for the younger girls it’s actually quite nice. We’re an English speaking country; the Tube (Underground) is pretty self-explanatory, and the English culture is very polite, and we like to help!
Noelle: They do get chaperoned though, if they are too young. We’d never let a girl under eighteen go out on her own, ever.
Chris: Yeah, and that also helps when they get settled in, there’s an English person there to teach them the ropes, the underground etc., how it works. We’ve never had any problems.


FMD: You mentioned that STORM has model apartments; are there strict rules enforced for the people staying in them?
Noelle: I wish we did, it’s a nightmare! It’s funny, model apartments are generally there for brand new girls, but sometimes girls end up living there for a couple of years. Some girls are actually messier maybe than boys, from what the cleaners tell us. (laugh)
Chris: Yeah, it’s bad! (laugh)
Noelle: It’s not good! It’s not good! I can’t understand it because I think if you can do this to someone else’s house, would you actually do this in your own house? I don’t think they would. Occasionally, we have to get pest control, painters and decorators coming in, or there are doors being broken off hinges or whatever it is. They’re young kids aren’t they; they’re not at home with their parents. I do get girls specifically saying, “I don’t want to stay in a model apartment”. We have a group of really lovely people who rent out rooms, and you know, I think they like it, the international girls who’ve not been here before, they feel kind of nurtured. It’s actually nice to be in a family environment.


FMD: What would you say are the most important qualities models should have?
Noelle: A voice and a personality for sure. I’ve seen the most beautiful girls in the world that have no personality, and I’m not meaning that in a derogative way, I just mean that, I think it’s like dating actually; you can think ‘oh, you’re fairly attractive’, but it’s the connection you have that actually develops how they come across, how you relate to that person – and actually personalities can make or break someone. You meet someone who’s really arrogant and full of themselves, and all that beauty just completely diminishes, whereas someone with a great personality can win you over in a different way, and you see a totally different side of them.
For me, if I were a casting director, it would be that. And it’s interesting to see how [it affects modeling], say you bring in a girl you don’t know particularly well, and she gets 30 options in a month and not one of them confirms, you start to think ‘there’s something not quite right there’, or you can get a girl that you weren’t entirely sure about but she has an amazing personality and her chart is full of red confirmations.
Chris: It’s true though!


FMD: Is there a common mistake that stands out as something models repeat over and over again?
Noelle: I would probably say approaching things with too much negativity.
Chris: Yeah, I was about to say that – or over thinking.
Noelle: When they start to analyze too much, girls can get very down on themselves, and I think that can come across to people. You can get yourself into a hole and it’s difficult to climb back out of it.
But I think it’s like that for everyone, for everything in life. I always write my Gratitudes down every day, things that I’m grateful for. If you try and make yourself feel more positive, then positivity comes back to you. But, I think when you go into anything with a negative view; it’s not going to turn itself around. You’ve got to be strong, and I think you’ve got to have a strong backbone. But saying this, I personally wouldn’t want to be judged on my looks every day of my life. It takes a certain quality of person.
Chris: Yeah, everyone thinks it’s an easy job, but…
Noelle: It’s one of the hardest. The worst thing a girl could ever do is to have a negative view on the industry, or herself, or whatever it is, you know, unless they’re enjoying it, loving it, I try to discourage them doing it at all. Because I think they’re so young, surely in that age group you’re supposed to be having the time of your life, not scrutinizing every part of yourself.

Why Models Should Study the Fashion Industry

Posted on by AJR250

 

In all careers, people are hired for their expertise in their chosen fields. As a model, part of your expertise is the knowledge you have of the Fashion Industry.

TO COMMUNICATE WITH CLIENTS AND PEERS

By researching your clients and their products, you will be able to grasp the creative, or marketing, concepts of your bookings.  You will find it easier to follow direction and communicate with your client, and the creative team, on a professional level. 

If you are booked for an informal event in a department store or boutique,  you will be required to converse with the customers.  You may have to encourage the shoppers to browse your client’s collection or answer questions about the clothes you are modeling. Of course, you are not expected to know everything about the designs; but you do need to appear to have a basic interest in fashion.

To be familiar with all of the designers, stylists, artists, and photographers is very useful during ‘shop talk’ with your agent. For example; you could be told that your next test shoot is in the style of an established photographer, or that you should dress in the style of a designer brand for a casting.

IMPROVE YOUR CHANCE OF SUCCESS

Your passion and understanding for this multi-billion dollar industry will be appreciated by everyone that you work with.  Flipping through fashion magazines and blogs can teach you the difference between editorial, campaign and lifestyle work, while giving you inspiration for a multitude of poses and expressions. Additionally, it will keep you up to date with current trends in clothing, cosmetics, and style. 

Not only that, you also need to know which artists and clients could potentially move you up the rankings just by working with them. Do not take this as an excuse to refuse jobs because they are not shot by Mario Testino, or for the cover of Vogue, but as a way to recognize when a major opportunity arises.  It is all too common for models to miss their chance to raise their careers to the next level. This is because they don’t understand what career-changing job is being offered to them.

Modeling is highly competitive, and both clients and agents want to work with well-informed models; so study the business. It will surely improve your chance of success, and after all, knowledge is power!

 

RESOURCES: Aside from the countless glossy magazines and blogs, here are some great websites to help you study the fashion industry.

 www.models.com

 www.wwd.com

www.nowfashion.com

 

What You Need To Know About Model Release Forms

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What You Need To Know About Model Release Forms

Model release forms are documents that, if signed, give photographers/clients the right to use your image and likeness through any still or video footage that they have taken of you. Release forms were not used that often before the advancements in technology and social media, but now they seem to be the norm for every shoot.

Part of your agent’s job is to negotiate how and where your final images or film will be used and for how long. This is partly because the client’s use of your likeness can affect your rate. In general, more specifically advertising, greater exposure commands a higher rate, or ‘usage fee’. But, it is also dependent on the budget or brand.

Agents and clients occasionally draw up written contracts to formalize their agreements. They will include rates and usage, plus any non-disclosures or exclusivity clauses. However, clients may still give you release forms to sign at shoots, despite having contracts in place.

DON’T GET CAUGHT OUT

Although clients may have your agent pre-approve their releases or adjust them to match the contracts; there are a few that won’t. Call your agency the moment you receive any model releases that you weren’t alerted about before going on set. Your agent will let you know if you need to make any corrections or alterations to it.

Signing a release without your agent’s permission can potentially hinder your modeling career. You could be authorizing the client rights to unlimited usage of the images, for an unlimited amount of time and without further reimbursement to you.

WHAT TO DO WHEN GIVEN A RELEASE FORM

Should you feel pressured into signing a release, politely inform the client that you are under contract that prevents you from signing anything without your agency’s consent.  Additionally, you can say that you would be happy to forward it to your agent for approval.

If you sign a release without your agent’s approval, you could be giving the client unlimited use of the images for an unlimited amount of time, without further reimbursement.
If you sign a release without your agent’s approval, you could be giving the client unlimited use of the images for an unlimited amount of time, without further reimbursement.

Bravo! Condé Nast: The Media Company Implements A Code Of Conduct For Photoshoots

Posted on by AJR250

It has been a tumultuous time of late. With the rise of the #MeToo movement, and it’s effect on not only Hollywood but many other industries, including Fashion.  Both men and women have spoken up about their experiences which are truly difficult to stomach.  But at last, it seems like society is finally addressing this serious situation. Even if we think it’s, ‘a little too late,’ there are changes being made to protect all genders in the workplace going forward.

In this month’s issue of Vogue, Anna Wintour announces in her Letter from the Editor  that the global media company, Condé Nast, which owns the glossy magazine, had recently created guidelines to specifically protect models from, “manipulation, coercion, and abuse while on set.”  While this code of conduct was already enforced by January 2018, it was rather impressive to see it written in print, penned by the queen of fashion herself. The new Condé Nast guidelines include:

All models appearing in fashion shoots must be eighteen years of age or older. The only exceptions will be those appearing as themselves as part of a profile or news story, and they will be required to have a chaperone on set at all times.

Alcohol will no longer be allowed on Condé Nast sets. Recreational drugs will not be allowed.

Photographers will no longer be permitted to use a Condé Nast set for any work that is not commissioned or approved by the company.

Any shoot involving nudity, sheer clothing, lingerie, swimwear, simulated drug or alcohol use, or sexually suggestive poses must be approved in advance by the subject.

Although, there are already child model laws set in place that should cover some of these points. Condé Nast also made specifications for location shoots and travel.

We recommend that a model should not be alone with a photographer, makeup artist or other contributor participating in a Condé Nast shoot.

Throughout the shoot, including any related travel, photographers and videographers may not shoot anyone engaged by or through Condé Nast other than as requested by Condé Nast.

Read the full Condé Nast code of conduct here

I fully commend Condé Nast for their shift in doing business, and hopefully other companies will follow suit. Bravo!

 

 

The Latest Departures and Arrivals In the Luxury Fashion Houses

Posted on by Katerina Stamatopoulou

By Katerina Stamatopoulou

@katrinst

  It seems that departures and arrivals from and to the houses will continue in 2018.

In 2017, two creative directors stopped their long-term partnership: Phoebe Philo, who left Céline after 10 years and Christopher Bailey from Burberry after 17 years.

Now, designer Kim Jones exits Louis Vuitton where he has taken over men’s clothing.
“It has been a huge privilege to work with Kim,” said Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton. “His ability to set trends is impeccable,” Burke continues. “All of us who have been fortunate to work with Kim wish him continued success in his next venture.”
His collaboration with the French house began in 2011. The Saint Martins graduate’s collections exuded a traveling aesthetic inspired by his travels to Asia and Africa. We could say that Jones has an addiction to travel. But, he is also who brought streetwear to Louis Vuitton after his collaboration with Supreme, the famous New York-based streetwear brand, at the AW2017 show.
Many celebrities from the fashion world attended Jones’ last show under the name of Louis Vuitton. Virgil Abloh, Oliver Rousteing, and the Beckham family were among them.
However, the designer had a surprise for the attendees. Supermodels, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, appeared on the catwalk with whom he walked into the show’s finale.

As far as it concerns his next step, Jones has been mentioned as a potential designer for Burberry, after Bailey’s exit.

Also, new arrivals have occurred in several fashion houses. Former Chloé designer, Clare Waight Keller, succeeded Riccardo Tisci after leaving Givenchy in March 2017. And, Natacha Ramsay Levi took the helm after Keller’s departure from Chloé.

A few days ago, Hedi Slimane, one of the leading fashion designers joined Céline.
Recently, LVMH announced that Slimane, who previously served Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, takes on his role in February 2018, while his first collection will be shown in September during Paris Fashion Week.
In his new role, Slimane will be the artistic, creative and image director of Céline, while he will introduce a men’s collection and a fragrance. 

“I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH group and taking the reins of our Céline maison,” said the LVMH chairman and CEO, Bernard Arnault. “He is one of the most talented designers of our

time. I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme (2000-2007). His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this maison.” 

“I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline,” said Slimane. “ I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers.”

But actually, he never left fashion. Since Slimane left Saint Laurent, in April 2016, he continued to work on his photo projects, but he liked to talk publicly about his return to the fashion design.

An Interview with British Stylist Sophie Stevens: On Set Life And Working With Models

Posted on by AJR250

"I picked her because I knew she wouldn't let me down. I didn't want to risk using a new girl that might not have been able to cope with the situation."

British Stylist Sophie Stevens
Photos courtesy of Sophie Stevens

Sophie Stevens does not only style celebrities like Kylie Minogue and Mel C, but you will also find her forecasting trends on British radio and television. She has spent over two decades working alongside models for campaigns and editorials such as; Marks and Spencers, L'Oréal, and Cosmopolitan Magazine. We get up close and personal with the glamorous stylist to find out what it's like to be in her world that requires models to have the utmost professionalism.

FMD: Stylists are sometimes asked to take part in selecting the models, as well as style. Do you get involved in the model casting process for your projects, and if so; are there specific physical or personality traits that you look for in both male and female models?
Sophie Stevens: I am often the person choosing the model. Personality is key for me. A book can show how they look on camera, but not who they are. [When you see them in person] you might discover that they do ballet or can ski - showing that they have great balance and are possibly super bendy! Physically, great skin and great hair is always a must.

Casting also gives you the ability to check for any changes to their appearance. For example, have they had a haircut or color? It's also a perfect opportunity to have a casual chat and a giggle with the models. Just to gauge what kind of personality they have. Lastly, I always reconfirm their stats with them. Often shoe sizes etc. can be incorrect in a model's book, and this can really make or break a shoot if you don't have the correct sizes.

FMD: Do you have any advice that would help models during castings? For instance, what would be a big no-no if they were at your casting?
Sophie Stevens: Being too quiet! Not expressing their personality enough. I love it when models show their natural style in what they wear to castings. I much prefer seeing [models] as they are. Clean hair is a must, and if it's pulled up; pull it down before we meet. Finally, don't swamp yourself in layers so I can't see your figure.

FMD: Describe the best working experience you have had with a model, and why it is on the top of your list?
Sophie Stevens: There would have been a lot over the years. But, a recent one that springs to mind is when I shot the Spring/Summer trends shoot in March, on a beach in the UK and it was so cold. The model was such a trooper. She never complained, even when it started to snow! She was in denim shorts and a sheer top while [the rest of the crew] had twelve layers on. I felt so bad, but I tried to keep her laughing and jumping by shoving a hot water bottle down her back and giving her endless hot drinks. She was so professional. She even said that she'd had a really nice day! Models are amazing sometimes! It's worth mentioning that I actually had shot this girl before. I picked her because I knew she wouldn't let me down. I didn't want to risk using a new girl that might not have been able to cope with the situation.

FMD: What would be your most challenging moments on set with a model? 
Sophie Stevens: There was a girl I shot once who was very new. She was such a sweet girl but also extremely nervous. The client had booked her for a big campaign, but she literally couldn't move. She couldn't follow any of my direction, so I had to keep going on set and physically move parts of her body to the position I needed them to be in. It was so difficult and time-consuming, and we had about 30 shots to do that day. 

FMD: From a client's standpoint, what is the working environment like while being on set for an editorial or campaign shoot?
Sophie Stevens: It's fun! A little stressful at times, depending on what you're doing.- and very busy! Time seems to slip away with you, so you have to be strict about getting people into position and not let them get carried away with chatting and eating croissants. If you're in charge, you have to step up and make sure things happen and be prepared for anything.

FMD: You do a lot of multi-day shoots on location. What are your expectations of models for these projects? Are they different from when you work on single day, or studio shoots?
Sophie Stevens: Location shoot days tend to start a lot earlier, so punctuality is key. They also tend to be slightly longer days, so models need to be aware of this in case they have evening plans or flights to catch. The other important factor for location shoots would be dressing appropriately. Even though wardrobe is provided for the shoot, models should bring clothes and shoes to keep warm in between shots. 

FMD: What advice do you have for any model that walks on to your set?
Sophie Stevens: Enjoy yourself, but be present. Don't check your phone every two minutes. Change quickly, and give it your all. That way everyone is happy; the day goes smoothly and quickly. Plus, we all get to go home on time!

 

The Three Ways you will Impress a Client.

Posted on by AJR250

The key to any successful career is to secure repeat business. This means that every time you walk on set you must bedazzle the client - not only with your appearance but your professionalism too. Here are three ways to help increase the chances of your clients calling your agent to book you again and again.

Have Confidence and Personality

Studies show that at least 60% of human communication is nonverbal; body language, facial expression, tone of voice, and eye contact. A person can get an instant impression of you the moment you walk into the room. If your shoulders are hunched and your face is blank, they may think that you have low self-esteem or no personality. It is important to appear confident because clients need the assurance that you can exude charisma and deliver whatever 'persona' they need to sell their product. The most successful models are not necessarily the most beautiful, but they are confident, well presented, vivacious and not afraid to strike up interesting conversations. It is normal to feel nervous - especially when working with a client for the first time. Maintaining eye contact and holding a conversation can be challenging under these circumstances.  Here are some tips that will have you oozing charm:

  • Look into the triangle area between the cheek bones and the bridge of the nose on the person’s face. It is less daunting than staring straight into their eyes, yet it is still just as effective.
  • Test your acting skills; pretend that you are one of your favorite, assertive movie characters.
  • Communicate with candor, but be aware that there is always a right time, place, and an appropriate topic for a discussion.

Master Your Poses

The more experience you have posing and moving in front of the camera, the more clients will want to hire you. When you deliver lots of great images in the least amount of time, it means that the client will stay ahead of schedule, and possibly decrease costs of production. Having a dance or acting background certainly helps, but if you do not, it may be worthwhile taking a few classes to improve your confidence and movement. In the meantime, practice all your poses and expressions in front of the mirror. Remember how they feel; because you won’t be able to see what you are doing once you are on set....And don't forget these three golden rules:

  • Listen to what the client is asking of you, and follow direction.
  • Provide your best, appropriate angles and expressions.
  • Ensure that you are showcasing the product or clothing properly.

Respect the Client's Property

This may seem like common sense, but nerves or distractions can make the best of us forget our manners. Being respectful towards your client’s, and their property, will grant you respect in return. By following these guidelines, you will show the client that you have good business etiquette that will make them want you back for more bookings.

  • Refrain from smoking; smelling like cigarettes can put people off, and burning holes in a collection definitely won't make a good impression.
  • Never eat and drink while in the client's clothing or around their products without permission.
  • Do not sit down while wearing the client’s clothes, unless they allow you to do so. Stylists work very hard to make sure that the clothes are clean and pressed to perfection.
  • Do not get deodorant, fake tan, makeup, or body oil on the client's clothing. If you’ve had makeup applied for a shoot or fashion show, have a makeup and hair protector hood or pillowcase handy, to keep it from getting onto the clothes.
  • Hang up your clothes, or help when you can.
  • Get rid of your trash; clients do not want to clean up after you.
  • Ask for permission to use any property in the studio, wardrobe trailer, or location.
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