Building Your Portfolio
It is a general rule that the more magazine tear sheets and campaigns you have in your portfolio, the more it motivates clients to book you. This is because they demonstrate your hirability and experience. But, what if you are a new face and have never done a photo shoot, or you are not booking jobs that provide tear sheets? Not to worry, this is what testing is for.
Test shoots are styled and shot as if they were for magazines, but more focused on the model rather than the clothes. They are a way to build up your portfolio, as well as your professional experience. Not only do new faces rely on testing; established models also utilize it to keep momentum while they wait for published editorials or advertising jobs, and to keep their portfolios updated.
Testing comes in two forms:
- PAID TESTS
- TFP – Trade for prints.
PAID TESTS
Many models have to hire photographers in order to get their portfolios started. Your agent will either set it up or put you in contact with him or her. It is likely that the photographer is a client, who shoots advertising, magazines, or catalogs. Testing is a great way for working photographers to become familiar with new models.
Paid tests can cost anywhere from $200 to $850, depending on the photographer, location and what kind of team is involved. After the shoot, your agency will receive a CD, zip file or web link containing all the photos. Keep in mind that there is the possibility of having to do more than one paid test, especially is you are a new face.
TRADE FOR PRINTS
There is a constant flow of photographers trying to get established within the fashion industry. One of the ways they do this is by reaching out to model agencies to offer free test shoots. In return, they can use the images for promotional purposes in their portfolios. The model (or models) will also be given copies for their books. These are known as “trade shoots”, or trade-for-print (TFP) shoots.
However, these trade shoots may not always work out. This can be due to poor photography, gaudy styling or an unsuitable theme. It is part of the risk and nature of working with new artists. But, whether the images make it into your book or not, the experience will help you grow as a model.
*If an artist approaches you directly to organize a shoot, notify your agency for approval. Your agent will know if the shoot will be worth your while (and safe!)
THE PORTFOLIO
With a fastidious eye your agent specifically arranges your portfolio or "book" so that you are presented in the best possible way. They select the images from your test shoots , as well as any published editorials or campaigns. Some of the shots chosen may not be your favorite but, in the agent’s professional opinion, the photos enhance your features, body shape or personality. Special care is taken to include a number of poses and looks that show diversity, and appeal to as many clients as possible. Yet, not all clients are going to love all your photos. Should one client say they don’t like a picture, it does not mean that it won’t interest another.
As a new face, it is normal to start out with four or five prints in your book. It is far more effective to have a few great pictures than a lot of ordinary ones. Keep in mind that it takes a while for a portfolio to develop into one worthy of a well-seasoned model, so be patient.
MFW F/W2018: La Divina Moda.
GUCCI
Why Models Should Study the Fashion Industry
In all careers, people are hired for their expertise in their chosen fields. As a model, part of your expertise is the knowledge you have of the Fashion Industry.
TO COMMUNICATE WITH CLIENTS AND PEERS
By researching your clients and their products, you will be able to grasp the creative, or marketing, concepts of your bookings. You will find it easier to follow direction and communicate with your client, and the creative team, on a professional level.
If you are booked for an informal event in a department store or boutique, you will be required to converse with the customers. You may have to encourage the shoppers to browse your client’s collection or answer questions about the clothes you are modeling. Of course, you are not expected to know everything about the designs; but you do need to appear to have a basic interest in fashion.
To be familiar with all of the designers, stylists, artists, and photographers is very useful during ‘shop talk’ with your agent. For example; you could be told that your next test shoot is in the style of an established photographer, or that you should dress in the style of a designer brand for a casting.
IMPROVE YOUR CHANCE OF SUCCESS
Your passion and understanding for this multi-billion dollar industry will be appreciated by everyone that you work with. Flipping through fashion magazines and blogs can teach you the difference between editorial, campaign and lifestyle work, while giving you inspiration for a multitude of poses and expressions. Additionally, it will keep you up to date with current trends in clothing, cosmetics, and style.
Not only that, you also need to know which artists and clients could potentially move you up the rankings just by working with them. Do not take this as an excuse to refuse jobs because they are not shot by Mario Testino, or for the cover of Vogue, but as a way to recognize when a major opportunity arises. It is all too common for models to miss their chance to raise their careers to the next level. This is because they don’t understand what career-changing job is being offered to them.
Modeling is highly competitive, and both clients and agents want to work with well-informed models; so study the business. It will surely improve your chance of success, and after all, knowledge is power!
RESOURCES: Aside from the countless glossy magazines and blogs, here are some great websites to help you study the fashion industry.
LFW F/W2018: Hail the Fashion Mix!
What You Need To Know About Model Release Forms
Model release forms are documents that, if signed, give photographers/clients the right to use your image and likeness through any still or video footage that they have taken of you. Release forms were not used that often before the advancements in technology and social media, but now they seem to be the norm for every shoot.
Part of your agent’s job is to negotiate how and where your final images or film will be used and for how long. This is partly because the client’s use of your likeness can affect your rate. In general, more specifically advertising, greater exposure commands a higher rate, or ‘usage fee’. But, it is also dependent on the budget or brand.
Agents and clients occasionally draw up written contracts to formalize their agreements. They will include rates and usage, plus any non-disclosures or exclusivity clauses. However, clients may still give you release forms to sign at shoots, despite having contracts in place.
DON’T GET CAUGHT OUT
Although clients may have your agent pre-approve their releases or adjust them to match the contracts; there are a few that won’t. Call your agency the moment you receive any model releases that you weren’t alerted about before going on set. Your agent will let you know if you need to make any corrections or alterations to it.
Signing a release without your agent’s permission can potentially hinder your modeling career. You could be authorizing the client rights to unlimited usage of the images, for an unlimited amount of time and without further reimbursement to you.
WHAT TO DO WHEN GIVEN A RELEASE FORM
Should you feel pressured into signing a release, politely inform the client that you are under contract that prevents you from signing anything without your agency’s consent. Additionally, you can say that you would be happy to forward it to your agent for approval.
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