Grandmasters of Fashion
Lately, the fashion scene looks like a chess game. Who will make the smartest next move?
Alexander McQueen Spring 2005 Fashion Show (marieclaire.co.uk)
Within the last few months, there has been intense mobility in the fashion world. Designers have come and gone from one fashion house to another. Some others preferred to split from the luxury group they once used to be under. Everyone is moving like pawns in a chess game.
Riccardo Tisci | Photo- Inez and Vinoodh (BoF)
The first move was made by Riccardo Tisci and Burberry. In early March, the British luxury brand announced that Riccardo Tisci would be the new Creative Officer. Tisci succeeded Christopher Bailey who after 17 years decided to leave the company.
“Riccardo is one of the most talented designers of our time. His designs have an elegance that is contemporary and his skill in blending streetwear with high fashion is highly relevant to today’s luxury consumer. Riccardo’s creative vision will reinforce the ambitions we have for Burberry and position the brand firmly in luxury,” said Marco Gobetti, Burberry’s chief executive.
“I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand, I am honored and delighted to be joining Burberry and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti,” said Tisci.
Kris Van Assche gets studious in the Dior Homme studio. (WWD)
The next strategic move was made by Dior Homme as Kris Van Assche exited after 11 years at the brand but he’ll take up a new role within the LVMH Group, according to WWD. Kim Jones will undertake the duty of artistic director for Dior Homme, and according to sources, he will present his first collection in June 2018.
“I am deeply honored to join the house of Dior, a symbol of the ultimate elegance,” said Jones.
Kim Jones (BoF)
Virgil Abloh (BoF)
And as Kim Jones moved to the Dior team, it was Louis Vuitton’s turn to shake things up. Virgil Abloh will now be the new artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear. The founder of the haute streetwear brand Off-White and Kanye West’s longtime creative director announced that he feels honored in accepting that position. He finds that the house’s heritage and creative integrity are the main key inspirations. So, his main goal would be to present them alongside with nowadays.
StellaMcCartney (the guardian.com)
After 17 years in a joint venture with the luxury goods group, Kering, Stella McCartney decided to make a very smart move and buy Kering’s 50% stake in her fashion label. “It is the right moment to acquire the full control of the company bearing my name,” said the designer. Rumour has it that Sir Paul McCartney has helped her financially to get the Kering’s share.
This chess game is not over, yet.
Brands Boost Influencer Marketing Budgets
Brands Boost Influencer Marketing Budgets
Influencers taking selfies in Milan | Source: Shutterstock By Victoria Berezhna April 6, 2018 05:28 LONDON, United Kingdom - Not all that long ago, many brands viewed using Instagram influencers to promote a new fashion line or attend a product launch event as a promising experiment.
How To Have A Better Working Relationship With Your Agent
Is This The Beginning Of The End For The Fur Trade?
It seems that many fashion houses and major US cities have started to ban the use of fur in their clothes and shops.
(AOL)
San Francisco is one of the first major US cities to ban the sale of fur, after the city’s Board of Supervisors’ unanimous vote. The ban goes into effect on 1st of January 2019, and the city’s retailers have until January of 2020 to sell their fur stock. Clothing and accessories made from animal fur will no longer have a place on the shelves of San Francisco’s retail shops. Currently, San Francisco is the third Californian city banning the sale of fur after Berkley and West Hollywood.
This is a very encouraging move, at a time when more and more designers are declaring their cessation of animal fur use. Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Michael Kors, and now Versace recently announced that only eco-friendly “faux fur” will be used in their collections.
Michael Kors (Fashionista)
In October 2017, Marco Bizzarri, president and CEO of Gucci, stated in the Business of Fashion that using fur today is out-dated, and that’s the main reason why they stopped using it in their collections. In 2016, Giorgio Armani announced that he’ll stop the use of real fur. He also said that new technologies “render the use of cruel practices unnecessary as regards animals.”
Model at the Gucci Cruise 2018 show in Florence, Italy. (Pietro DΓÇÖAprano/Getty Images)
At the end of 2017, the iconic American designer, Michael Kors, announced that his company would no longer use real fur. The top Italian brand Versace, known for its unique Italian aesthetic has officially stated that it will stop using real fur, with Donatella Versace telling The Economist’s 1843 magazine, “Fur? I am out of that. I don’t want to kill animals to make fashion. It doesn’t feel right.”
Donatella Versace. (Alberto Scarpinato/IPA/RexShutterstock)
The “fur issue” will continue to bother the majority of fashion designers, since it’s not just about the use of real or fake. It’s more about sustainability and the way the faux-fur is produced.
Alex Reis: A Model Search Discovery.
Almost three years ago, Alex Reis entered a model search in hopes to follow his dream of becoming a model and actor. Since then, he has been signed with Stars Management and has never looked back.
FMD: You were discovered through a Stars Management Model Search. What made you enter the model search?
Alex: My dream has always been to pursue acting. I looked up model and talent agencies, and I found Stars. I saw that they were having one, and I just went out to them.
FMD: What has been the biggest lesson that you’ve learned while modeling?
Alex: To be yourself, no matter what. Even though people will want you to look a certain way or be someone else, in the end, you will gain so much more if you are just yourself. That’s the biggest thing. I think, in this industry, people can get easily manipulated or persuaded into being someone else, and when they become that, I think they actually lessen their chances of [achieving] their goals.
FMD: So, not trying to copy someone else?
Alex: It’s easy to see another person and follow their footsteps or try to emulate them. But, you are kind of losing who you are, your uniqueness. Once you find that you have that special something, whatever it is, that uniqueness or personality, and if you can bring that out during a shoot or audition, you are going to gain so much more. When you copy someone else, you’re just generic. But, if you can be that something else, you will stand out, and that’s a hugely powerful tool.
FMD: Would you say that’s a big lesson for life in general?
Alex: Yes, especially in relationships, and with yourself – loving yourself too. This is kind of an interesting industry, unlike anything else I’ve been in. You have to have a lot of self-love and that balance of self-esteem. Be true to yourself. Believe in yourself.
FMD: What’s been your favorite modeling moment so far?
Alex: One has been bike riding around downtown San Francisco during rush hour, and I was in an astronaut costume riding an electric bicycle. A police motorcade guided me through traffic, and it was just wild. The photographer was hanging off the side of a motorcycle. Crazy! There was that, and there was a shoot I did in Northern California eating BBQ Oysters, another one I went to Tahoe and played in the snow.
FMD: Do you prefer doing on-camera/moving image as opposed to print/stills?
Alex: Maybe, perhaps I might like on-camera, just because there are more possibilities and range. But, it all depends on what’s going on. Like, there can be so much more behind the stills too. There can be movement, but the photographer is just capturing it in a single image.
FMD: What would you say to the aspiring models entering the #fmd❤️starsmodel search?
Alex: If this is something that you want to do, don’t be discouraged right away. Be very patient. Don’t expect for any quick fame or whatever. Don’t chase it for the fame, chase it for something else, something more valuable. I think mostly do it for yourself, believe in yourself.
Interview with STORM’S Noelle Doukas And Christopher Yianoullou
Noelle and Christopher have over twenty-five years experience between them, spent working at the forefront of the modeling industry. Both agents exude bright dynamic personalities with an obvious passion for the talent they represent.
We chat about STORM, which has been one of the most influential model agencies since Sarah Doukas, Noelle’s mother, opened its doors in 1987, and move onto the innovations within the market and the changes of their model requirements.
FMD: What are the key attributes that STORM looks for when scouting for models?
Chris: We look for standards like height and beautiful skin and great bone structure, but our industry has started to celebrate the more unique aspects of the girl – who she is and what she’s about; her style, her personality. There is much more to it, and you can’t just scout by looking at someone, you really need to talk to that person and get a feel for who they are. Clients like ASOS and Urban Outfitters want to do more profile pieces, and they want real people, so it makes it more fun for us because [models] don’t have to be strictly 5’10” minimum anymore. It’s more flexible, and more fun; so yeah it’s about character more than anything really.
FMD: Whenever you bring international models into London; what is your process, and does STORM have specific facilities to accommodate them?
Noelle: It all depends on how long you are bringing girls in for, and also what you are bringing them in for. There are some girls we bring in for periods of time, say two to three months; in which case you set them up in a house. We do have model apartments, but we also have a wide range of people who are like second moms who look after them, because it is quite daunting if they have never been into the territory before. Obviously, if it’s a girl who has never been to the UK, we take a bit of time explaining how to get around, because the girls have go-sees or castings every day. They probably have four to five castings a day. So, they kind of hit the ground running really. Sometimes, we try to set them up with other girls so they get a feel for what they are doing. We do have an assistant on board that goes through everything with them, and gives them a UK phone and tries to introduce them to transport etc. London’s enormous isn’t it, so expecting these girls to go to appointment to appointment is really quite daunting.
FMD: Are the castings based in London or all over the UK?
Noelle: They are completely sporadic. With castings, you can’t dictate what time it is, what area it is, so a girl could be coming from E1 and then having to go to SE11 (London postcodes with a distance of five miles) and she’s got a small amount of time to do it. If you get a bigger international girl, say she’s here for three days, it’s easier to put them in a car. They are doing a ton of appointments a day, back to back. I mean, since Uber’s come around it’s changed things quite a bit. It’s not that expensive to Uber from one place to another.
FMD: Uber’s made a model’s life a lot easier.
Noelle: It makes it probably a lot easier. I do feel for them though. I have done go-sees and castings with one girl once, and I thought, “I do feel sorry for them.”
Chris: It’s not as glamorous as you think.
FMD: Describe the London Market and Clientele.
Noelle: Well, I think first of all we’ve got the best editorial, I would say in the world, because we have the high-end publications like Vogue, Harpers, and Elle, and we also have the really kind of cool magazines like Dazed, and Wonderland. Now, there are a lot of online publications, there’s a pop-up magazine every day.
Chris: It’s a super creative city, with all the great designers and fashion schools. The students’ work is incredible here.
Noelle: It’s a good market to develop a girl because, as I’ve said, when we’ve got such a wide range of editorials; it’s good to develop their books. But, I think another great thing about London is that we have the advertising, the catalogues, and the E-com, and so a girl is pretty much guaranteed to make a nice amount of money. I mean the British pound is pretty shocking at the moment, but prior to that, it was great! No, it’s a great city! Our Fashion week is better than it ever has been before. I think a lot more girls are coming to London to do the shows, it’s a lot more relevant. So, I would say London’s definitely kind of an all-rounder. You know the only other thing is there is not as much competition, because most girls base themselves in New York, at which point you’re competing with x amount of girls, as opposed to a less amount of cool, international new faces.
FMD: How easy is it for new models to acclimate to the London Market?
Chris: I think for the younger girls it’s actually quite nice. We’re an English speaking country; the Tube (Underground) is pretty self-explanatory, and the English culture is very polite, and we like to help!
Noelle: They do get chaperoned though, if they are too young. We’d never let a girl under eighteen go out on her own, ever.
Chris: Yeah, and that also helps when they get settled in, there’s an English person there to teach them the ropes, the underground etc., how it works. We’ve never had any problems.
FMD: You mentioned that STORM has model apartments; are there strict rules enforced for the people staying in them?
Noelle: I wish we did, it’s a nightmare! It’s funny, model apartments are generally there for brand new girls, but sometimes girls end up living there for a couple of years. Some girls are actually messier maybe than boys, from what the cleaners tell us. (laugh)
Chris: Yeah, it’s bad! (laugh)
Noelle: It’s not good! It’s not good! I can’t understand it because I think if you can do this to someone else’s house, would you actually do this in your own house? I don’t think they would. Occasionally, we have to get pest control, painters and decorators coming in, or there are doors being broken off hinges or whatever it is. They’re young kids aren’t they; they’re not at home with their parents. I do get girls specifically saying, “I don’t want to stay in a model apartment”. We have a group of really lovely people who rent out rooms, and you know, I think they like it, the international girls who’ve not been here before, they feel kind of nurtured. It’s actually nice to be in a family environment.
FMD: What would you say are the most important qualities models should have?
Noelle: A voice and a personality for sure. I’ve seen the most beautiful girls in the world that have no personality, and I’m not meaning that in a derogative way, I just mean that, I think it’s like dating actually; you can think ‘oh, you’re fairly attractive’, but it’s the connection you have that actually develops how they come across, how you relate to that person – and actually personalities can make or break someone. You meet someone who’s really arrogant and full of themselves, and all that beauty just completely diminishes, whereas someone with a great personality can win you over in a different way, and you see a totally different side of them.
For me, if I were a casting director, it would be that. And it’s interesting to see how [it affects modeling], say you bring in a girl you don’t know particularly well, and she gets 30 options in a month and not one of them confirms, you start to think ‘there’s something not quite right there’, or you can get a girl that you weren’t entirely sure about but she has an amazing personality and her chart is full of red confirmations.
Chris: It’s true though!
FMD: Is there a common mistake that stands out as something models repeat over and over again?
Noelle: I would probably say approaching things with too much negativity.
Chris: Yeah, I was about to say that – or over thinking.
Noelle: When they start to analyze too much, girls can get very down on themselves, and I think that can come across to people. You can get yourself into a hole and it’s difficult to climb back out of it.
But I think it’s like that for everyone, for everything in life. I always write my Gratitudes down every day, things that I’m grateful for. If you try and make yourself feel more positive, then positivity comes back to you. But, I think when you go into anything with a negative view; it’s not going to turn itself around. You’ve got to be strong, and I think you’ve got to have a strong backbone. But saying this, I personally wouldn’t want to be judged on my looks every day of my life. It takes a certain quality of person.
Chris: Yeah, everyone thinks it’s an easy job, but…
Noelle: It’s one of the hardest. The worst thing a girl could ever do is to have a negative view on the industry, or herself, or whatever it is, you know, unless they’re enjoying it, loving it, I try to discourage them doing it at all. Because I think they’re so young, surely in that age group you’re supposed to be having the time of your life, not scrutinizing every part of yourself.
Can You Model With Tattoos?
Now that tattoos are the norm in today's society, you can be inked and still work as a model. In fact, a number of agencies have broadened their spectrum of diversity – which includes the heavily tatted and pierced. Tattoos generally seem to be accepted in the fashion world, and they are often featured in edgy editorials or campaigns. Even a few models have risen to fame because of their body canvas. Look at Rick Genest, aka "Zombie Boy" who has graced many magazines and campaigns including Thierry Mugler. (See 40 Top Models with fashionable tattoos.)
However, tattoos can still limit the chance of a long-term modeling career. To stand the test of time, as a model, you must be a chameleon and transform into anything the client wants – conservative or edgy, and everything in between. This is why many clients ask for ink-free models, or at the very least, have tattoos that can be easily hidden. Shoots for cosmetics, underwear, and swimwear typically require flawless skin. While Photoshop and great makeup techniques can conceal tattoos, the artists’ time is very costly. Unless the client wants to embrace your artwork, any tattoo that covers a large portion of your body can make them rethink booking you.
It is not advisable to get ‘makeup’ tattoos; such as eye and lip liner. Aside from the fact that they are impossible for makeup artists to work with, they can also change your facial features and potentially jeopardize your career.
If you are a model, or about to become one, you might want to hold off your trip to the tattoo parlor until you speak with your agent.
For those already inked, depending on where your tattoos are, what you are wearing and what kind of job you are doing, you can move your body into poses that can hide your artwork. But, if you cannot get away with that, below are some of our favorite products that can conceal small to medium sized tattoos. (NOTE: Make sure you set the makeup and avoid getting it on your client’s clothing).
TATTOO MAKE UP
Dermablend Leg and Body Makeup www.dermablend.com
Mehron Tattoo CoveRing www.mehron.com
Rio Skin Camouflage Concealer www.riobeauty.co.uk / www.ebay.com
PFW F/W2018. We’ll Always Have Paris.
February 27, 2018
Christian Dior
First, it was the “We should all be feminists” T-shirt, now the “C’est non, non, non et non!” sweater. It’s been 50 years since the student riots in May 1968, and Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to make another social-political statement. Inspired by the tumultuous protesters of 1968 and Diane Vreeland’s “youthquake”, Chiuri wanted to target younger customers but retain Dior’s high-fashion aesthetic and legacy. A wardrobe that is revolutionary but also highly creative.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello was inspired by the Yves Saint Laurent’s “Russian Peasant” couture collection of F/W 1976, an extravagant collection in its time. But, Vaccarello gave a more Parisian direction of that elaborated and voluminous collection of Monsieur Saint Laurent. Mini shorts, large brimmed hats, fiercely impressive décolletés and the sparkling Eiffel Tower as a background accessory created a strong, contemporary fashion statement.
February 28, 2018
Maison Margiela
Décortiqué. John Galliano loves to name his collections with French adjectives. In this collection, he stripped down the garments to their essence and just kept their skeletal structure. Unconscious glamour was the collection’s name, but it looked more like ‘Rushed Dressing’ glamour. Coats worn before dresses, blazers before sweaters, holographic coats and a lot of deconstructing garments all over the catwalk. Galliano loves the pair-if-you-dare game of fabrics.
Dries Van Noten
Fashion is good, fashion is nice. It sounds like a mantra but that was the message Dries Van Noten was passing through his collection. We live in a very complicated and wild world, and maybe the Dark Ages are back. But, fashion should reflect the bright side of life. That was what Van Noten’s collection was all about. Utilitarian sportswear, ‘70s glam, and Paul Poiret references. Fashion is good, fashion is nice.
March 1, 2018
Ann Demeulemeester
The dark romanticism of the British poet, William Blake, was what Sébastien Meunier had in mind while creating this strong, aggressive but feminine collection. Clothes for modern amazons. Unfastened leather straps, painted black clothes, but there was also a hint of innocence. Jeanne d’Arc could have been Meunier’s muse for this collection.
March 2, 2018
Loewe
Five classical novels in their native language, with jackets photographed by Steven Meisel, were placed on every chair. “Classicism is always there…sometimes you change the cover and make it relevant for today,” Jonathan Anderson referred to the reading material. Loewe craftsmanship and the meticulously detailed mixing of the fabrics created an updated classic collection.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing’s “Balmain Army” became fierce disco queens this season. They love wearing ripped jeans with holographic jackets, quilted leather, PVC thigh-high boots, and whatever has a shining effect on the designer’s favorite ‘80s silhouettes.
March 3, 2018
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo always loves to deconstruct the shape of the clothes and create theatrical figures inspired the history, even if she has stated that she doesn’t like to look back. For this season, CAMP was the name of her collection. She referred to Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on Camp”. “I think camp can express something deeper, and give birth to progress,” Kawakubo wrote in her show notes. The progress of thinking and feeling the world around us.
Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra designed a collection that was all about the women he grew up with. His mother, his friends, all the women who work and get dressed to go to the office. La Coupole restaurant at Montparnasse was the perfect choice for this real collection to take place.
March 4, 2018
Givenchy
If someone wants to learn about the ‘80s in East and West Germany, Clare Waight Keller’s collection for Givenchy would be the best fashion history class. Rich faux furs, leather, sharp tailoring and lace created the desired contradiction so as to present those two different sides of a country. Glamour and cruelty.
Valentino
“Sometimes it’s felt as if a woman had to dress like men to be more powerful. Today is a different moment. People can be exactly how they are,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli. Flowers, the symbol of romance, were the collection’s main theme. Flowers that were a reminder of Georgia O’ Keefe paintings but much more minimal. Long dresses, coats, jackets; everything a romantic Valentino woman would wear.
March 5, 2018
Alexander McQueen
A McQueen woman is always powerful, and so was Sarah Burton’s show. Metamorphosis was the name of the collection, and it was an ode to powerful womanhood. Like a caterpillar transforms into a beautiful and ethereal butterfly, so does a girl become a mighty woman. Undoubtedly, throughout the collection butterfly wings had a special place.
Giambattista Valli
“Humanity, much less politics,” Giambattista Valli said backstage. Valli’s collection was a collision between different cultures and politics where everyone accepts each other as they are. A journey through different countries, unique civilizations and unlike mentalities, but with bohemian attitude.
March 6, 2018
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld always narrates a personal story through each of his shows, and he did so again this time. Twelve old alleys decorated the runway, at Grand Palais, along with a German forest that is usually spotted somewhere in north Hamburg, a memory from Lagerfeld’s childhood. Everything that one needed for a stylish walk into the woods was in the collection.
The #CHANELFallWinter 2018/19 show, presented by Karl Lagerfeld yesterday in Paris. #PFW
A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial) on
Miu Miu
Miu Miu is about girls who love to have fun with fashion. This time, Miuccia Prada mixed the ‘50s and ‘80s and the outcome was an eccentric and colorful collection. Different types of models, but all were referring to strong personalities. One thing in common… they all love the ‘80s powerful dress code.
How To Recover From Fashion Month
Has Fashion Month Left You Feeling Like You've Been Hit By A Wrecking Ball?
Fashion Month is now over, and you are left with sore feet, dry skin, brittle hair, flaking soft nails, and the feeling that you could sleep for a week. We would suggest that you take a vacation, like a number of models do, but what if you don’t have the time or opportunity to do that? We have a few easy and affordable ways to recover, and get you back to your modeling career.