Grandmasters of Fashion
Lately, the fashion scene looks like a chess game. Who will make the smartest next move?
Alexander McQueen Spring 2005 Fashion Show (marieclaire.co.uk)
Within the last few months, there has been intense mobility in the fashion world. Designers have come and gone from one fashion house to another. Some others preferred to split from the luxury group they once used to be under. Everyone is moving like pawns in a chess game.
Riccardo Tisci | Photo- Inez and Vinoodh (BoF)
The first move was made by Riccardo Tisci and Burberry. In early March, the British luxury brand announced that Riccardo Tisci would be the new Creative Officer. Tisci succeeded Christopher Bailey who after 17 years decided to leave the company.
“Riccardo is one of the most talented designers of our time. His designs have an elegance that is contemporary and his skill in blending streetwear with high fashion is highly relevant to today’s luxury consumer. Riccardo’s creative vision will reinforce the ambitions we have for Burberry and position the brand firmly in luxury,” said Marco Gobetti, Burberry’s chief executive.
“I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand, I am honored and delighted to be joining Burberry and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti,” said Tisci.
Kris Van Assche gets studious in the Dior Homme studio. (WWD)
The next strategic move was made by Dior Homme as Kris Van Assche exited after 11 years at the brand but he’ll take up a new role within the LVMH Group, according to WWD. Kim Jones will undertake the duty of artistic director for Dior Homme, and according to sources, he will present his first collection in June 2018.
“I am deeply honored to join the house of Dior, a symbol of the ultimate elegance,” said Jones.
Kim Jones (BoF)
Virgil Abloh (BoF)
And as Kim Jones moved to the Dior team, it was Louis Vuitton’s turn to shake things up. Virgil Abloh will now be the new artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear. The founder of the haute streetwear brand Off-White and Kanye West’s longtime creative director announced that he feels honored in accepting that position. He finds that the house’s heritage and creative integrity are the main key inspirations. So, his main goal would be to present them alongside with nowadays.
StellaMcCartney (the guardian.com)
After 17 years in a joint venture with the luxury goods group, Kering, Stella McCartney decided to make a very smart move and buy Kering’s 50% stake in her fashion label. “It is the right moment to acquire the full control of the company bearing my name,” said the designer. Rumour has it that Sir Paul McCartney has helped her financially to get the Kering’s share.
This chess game is not over, yet.
LFW F/W2018: Hail the Fashion Mix!
Britishness. Color explosion. Print mix. Feminine empowerment. And Queen Elizabeth II first appearance at LFW. God save LFW!
February 16, 2018
Mulberry
“It’s all about the bag!” someone might think at the sound of the name Mulberry, the British well-known for its handbags brand. True but, the see-now, buy-now Spring 2018 collection was more like the tea party scene from Alice in Wonderland. A patisserie color palette and shoes with colorful ruffles and porcelain cups inspired rounded heels are the perfect choices for a garden party.
Matty Bovan
Matty Bovan is one of the rising stars on the London fashion scene. With his first solo show, he proved that he’s not only a good tailor since the main pieces of the collection were inspired by his late grandmother’s wardrobe, but he’s also a great showman. The tulle headdresses filled with balloons, designed by Stephen Jones, stole the show.
February 17, 2018
J.W. Anderson
“I was trying to think what is modern today and what is modern is what is next. Now is an amazing moment of clear-out and I think let’s go and find what’s new,” Jonathan Anderson said about his collection. He had to look back to his first collections and get inspiration from them. Paisleys, trench coats and khakis. It was a very different collection to what he does for LOEWE. It was a younger and more optimistic collection.
Burberry
Christopher Bailey’s last show for Burberry was a TIME to remember. This time wasn’t about Burberry, it was about a celebration of individuality. To that end, Bailey showed everything he believes in. Gay rights, optimism, youthfulness, and British streetwear were a look back to all those years he worked at Burberry. The bright LGBTQ+ rainbow colors appeared in most pieces, which became the signature of his last collection.
Gareth Pugh
This collection was all about power dressing. For once more, Pugh demolished the feminine silhouette and created a stiffer and more well-constructed one. Pagoda-shouldered tailoring, high-waisted trousers, leopard prints and a Hellraiser nail helmet made the collection serious armor. No one will ever dare to mess around with a Pugh’s woman.
February 18, 2018
Roland Mouret
“The Eyes of Laura Mars,” a 1978 movie, starring Faye Dunaway, is about power, femininity and image control. One of Roland Mouret’s favorite movies and the inspiration for his collection. He wanted to address the current theme of women’s harassment in the workplace, and he did it. Tapestry-like fabrics, wrap skirts but also laced dresses and football socks gave his collection the perfect balance between sensuality and modesty.
Mary Katrantzou
Mary Katrantzou is the “Queen of Prints,” and once again she demonstrated that she can reduce the distance between two very different design styles. Her “Interior Lives” collection was inspired by furniture and prints from William Morris and Bauhaus. A very paradoxical marriage with a very creative outcome. And yes, a Chesterfield sofa can turn into a bomber jacket!
February 19, 2018
Erdem
For his melancholy collection, Erdem Moralioglu chose as his inspiration the American vaudeville star Adele Astaire, sister of Fred Astaire. Beautiful, rich and romantic this collection could only be named. A showgirl who married an aristocrat. A collision of two different worlds. On the one side sparkling dresses and glittering capes, on the other jacquard dresses and thin black face veils. It worked since his collection told the story he had in mind.
Christopher Kane
“I’ve always been about human behavior, and I’ve always had some sort of sexual behavior in the collections,” Christopher Kane said after he presented his “The Joy of Sex “ by Alex Comfort illustrations inspired collection. Dominatrix leather dresses, knits that revealed the bra strap, and a lot of lace, “lover’s lace” as it called. Beautiful, provocative and sensual collection.
February 20, 2018
Richard Quinn
“She’s known for her sense of humor, and she’s seen a lot in her life. I don’t think a gimp mask will shock the Queen,” Richard Quinn said about the possible need of muting the designer’s signature bondage theme due to Queen Elizabeth II’s attendance at his show. Quinn’s collection was a tribute to Her Majesty’s Balmoral wardrobe. Prints, scarves beautifully paired with pleated chiffon skirts and oversized bomber jackets. At the end of the show, Quinn was awarded by Her Majesty with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, as a recognition of his talent and contribution to the fashion community.
The Latest Departures and Arrivals In the Luxury Fashion Houses
It seems that departures and arrivals from and to the houses will continue in 2018.
In 2017, two creative directors stopped their long-term partnership: Phoebe Philo, who left Céline after 10 years and Christopher Bailey from Burberry after 17 years.
Now, designer Kim Jones exits Louis Vuitton where he has taken over men’s clothing.
“It has been a huge privilege to work with Kim,” said Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton. “His ability to set trends is impeccable,” Burke continues. “All of us who have been fortunate to work with Kim wish him continued success in his next venture.”
His collaboration with the French house began in 2011. The Saint Martins graduate’s collections exuded a traveling aesthetic inspired by his travels to Asia and Africa. We could say that Jones has an addiction to travel. But, he is also who brought streetwear to Louis Vuitton after his collaboration with Supreme, the famous New York-based streetwear brand, at the AW2017 show.
Many celebrities from the fashion world attended Jones’ last show under the name of Louis Vuitton. Virgil Abloh, Oliver Rousteing, and the Beckham family were among them.
However, the designer had a surprise for the attendees. Supermodels, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, appeared on the catwalk with whom he walked into the show’s finale.
As far as it concerns his next step, Jones has been mentioned as a potential designer for Burberry, after Bailey’s exit.
Also, new arrivals have occurred in several fashion houses. Former Chloé designer, Clare Waight Keller, succeeded Riccardo Tisci after leaving Givenchy in March 2017. And, Natacha Ramsay Levi took the helm after Keller’s departure from Chloé.
A few days ago, Hedi Slimane, one of the leading fashion designers joined Céline.
Recently, LVMH announced that Slimane, who previously served Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, takes on his role in February 2018, while his first collection will be shown in September during Paris Fashion Week.
In his new role, Slimane will be the artistic, creative and image director of Céline, while he will introduce a men’s collection and a fragrance.
“I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH group and taking the reins of our Céline maison,” said the LVMH chairman and CEO, Bernard Arnault. “He is one of the most talented designers of our
time. I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme (2000-2007). His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this maison.”
“I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline,” said Slimane. “ I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers.”
But actually, he never left fashion. Since Slimane left Saint Laurent, in April 2016, he continued to work on his photo projects, but he liked to talk publicly about his return to the fashion design.
